2008 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Kabinett

Very mineral and reductive but the peachy citrus fruit is beginning to emerge. Bracing acidity balanced by great depth of fruit and honeyed lemon. Great length. (JH)

Pungent suggestions of thyme and lavender join more typical apple blossom and heliotrope, apple and vanilla in the nose of the Joh. Jos. Prum 2008 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett. There is a bit of a veil of CO2, yeast, and sulfur shrouding the nose here – not at all uncommon in youthful Prum wines, but little evidenced in this year’s other Kabinett bottlings at the time I tasted them – however it detracts only slightly from the pleasure of the wine’s aromatic complexity. The palate here suggests a near-weightless yet intense floral distillation underlain by vivid wet stone. A classic youthful example of Prum Wehlener Sonnenuhr Kabinett, it will blossom short term as it emerges from its fermentative funk, not to mention over the next 20-25 years, though right now the corresponding Bernkasteler and Graacher are more refreshing and dynamic.

Succulent aromas of cherry, apple blossom and sweet herbs. Firm apricot pit fruit, but with a refreshing acid bounce framing the palate. The elegant finish features persistent slatey minerality. My candidate for the kabinett of the vintage.