2009 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Kabinett

Peach, apple, honeysuckle, and heliotrope scent the Richter 2009 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett, which demonstrates surprising brightness and cut (traceable to high acidity) for the vintage. Lip-smacking salinity and underlying wet stone inform the juicy and persistently perfumed finish of this delicate and refreshing Kabinett that will merit following for at least 15 years. Incidentally, as part of the current Flurbereinigung of Wehlener Sonnenuhr, these vines are being ripped out and Richter’s new acreage will be planted with two Geisenheim clones. While yields were down significantly in Muhlheim and Brauneberg – particularly due to peronospora – and sorting almost universally required, Dirk Richter reports that his overall 2009 crop was above- average volume, though he acknowledges that due to the need for relatively intensive spraying against fungal pests, both its ripening and the evolution of the resulting wines were retarded. Kabinetts were not picked until the last days of October; acid levels of most wines are well above vintage average; there was little Auslese; and some wines (Kabinetts, as it happens!) had not yet bottled when I visited in September. Richer – whose Rieslings from top sites continue to be bargain-priced – has just taken over a section of Erdener Treppchen that is in the family of his cellarmaster, who has no heirs. While there were still stocks of some 2008 vintage Rieslings available when I visited in September, the 2009 Richter Pinot Blanc had already been sold out without remainder, so I did not get chance to taste that of-late often promising bottling. Importer: Langdon-Shiverick Cleveland, OH; tel. (216) 861-6800