2004 Fleur Cardinale

Dark crimson. Sweet and quite thick. Tough but sincere. (JR)

Proprietor Dominique Decoster (of Havilland porcelain fame) has fashioned an outstanding 2004 (a 5,800-case blend of 75% Merlot and 25% Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon). Made with the assistance of notable winemaking consultants Jean-Philippe Fort, from Michel Rolland’s laboratory, and St.-Emilion’s bad boy, Jean-Luc Thunevin, it is a powerful (14.5% natural alcohol) sleeper of the vintage. A dark ruby/purple hue is followed by aromas of crushed red and black fruits interwoven with notes of flowers, cedar, new oak, and licorice. Possessing supple tannin, an opulent, medium to full-bodied mouthfeel, and beautiful purity, texture, and length, it can be drunk now and over the next 15 years. An estate on a roll!

Good red-ruby. Expressive nose offers berry liqueur, graphite, truffle and minerals. Sweet, concentrated and fine-grained, with currant and truffle flavors complicated by minerals and dark chocolate on the back. Finishes with sweet tannins and lovely persistence. This is accessible already but should age gracefully.