2003 Fleur Cardinale

The Decoster family acquired this property in 2001 and hit pay dirt with the 2003, despite the extreme heat and drought of June, July and August. Plenty of fig, plum and black currant fruit are present; the tannins are totally resolved; and the wine is medium- to full-bodied and opulent with low acidity and a lush texture. This juicy, appealing 2003 should drink well for 4-5 more years.

Healthy ruby-red. Exotic jammy berries, plum, smoked meat, coffee and truffle on the nose. Sweet and fat, with full-blown flavors of woodsmoke and truffle. Relies more on its substantial ripe tannins than its acids for structure, but there's no shortage of energy. Finishes with building tannins and notes of plum, redcurrant and mocha.

Toasty nose. Thick, sweet, very exaggerated to this palate. Black cherry jam, character and then new oak – a hint of woodshavings. Extremely hot but persistent finish. Just a tad more acidity would help enormously. (JR)