2005 Moulinet

75% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon from an 18ha vineyard with 6,000 vines/ha aged 30 years. The vines are situated on the north-facing slopes of Pomerol plateau, planted on topsoil of gravel over sand and gravel subsoil. Grapes are hand-picked and sorted on a sorting table. New, compartmented vats have been installed to be able to vat the grapes plot by plot for custom vinification. Prefermentation maceration at low temperature for 3-4 weeks. Fermented in temperature-controlled stainless steel vats. Blended and aged in oak barrels, half of which are new oak and racked every 3 months. Bottled 18 months after harvest. Real zest on the nose (thanks to the Cab Franc?). Much better colour than the Croix Taillefer and a really very satisfying wine that could be drunk already. Dense. £27.50 Waitrose Wine Direct and 6 branches (JR)

(80% merlot and 20% cab franc) Red-ruby. Expressive nose offers black fruits, violet and bitter chocolate. Sweet and lush, with a liqueur-like flavor of crystallized fruits and complicating mineral, coffee and licorice notes. Offers lovely richness and finishes with tongue-dusting tannins and a late note of leather. This wine started out at 12 euros. Denis Durantou has vinified here since 2004.

(an 80/20 blend of merlot and cabernet franc; a selection from gravelly soil) Good medium ruby. Pure aromas of black cherry, licorice and spicy oak. Sweet, ripe and dense, with a layered texture to the flavors of black cherry, black raspberry, chocolate, licorice and minerals. Finishes with big, building tannins. This is aging in all new barrels but appears to have the material, and personality, to support the wood.