2008 Chambolle Musigny Hauts Doix

Reduction-related notes of sage, horehound, and smoked meat on the nose of Groffiers’ 2008 Chambolle-Musigny Les Hauts Doix lead to a surprisingly tart, red raspberry and cranberry-like fruit impression on the palate, for which the wine’s pungently herbal aspects serve as a suitable accent. A faintly oily, quite rich texture makes for fascinating counterpoint with the wine’s brightness of fruit, just as suggestions of game and smoked meat mingle fascinatingly with citrus oils in a persistent, faintly sizzling and bitter-tart finish. This should be fascinating to follow over at least the next 5-6 years, though I would again look out for signs that it might evolve into a rather sweet-tart split personality for which potential seeds are already evident. Nicolas Groffier seems not to have been bashful when it comes to extracting flavors from the family’s 2008 grapes (harvested in a mere 5 days, finishing October 1), despite what he emphasizes was the tiny size of both yields and berries. When it comes to elevage, though, he was cautious even at a risk he acknowledges of wines that might show stiffly and reductively for a while after bottling, having racked the young 2008s into tank after just shy of 12 months, which for some lots meant almost immediately after the conclusion of malo. (Bottling sessions were in December and February). Natural alcohols in 2008 were in the upper 12’s (the 2007s were very slightly higher) and typically adjusted by about a quarter of a degree. A Peter Vezan Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011 33 1 42 55 42 93, also imported by Atherton Imports, Menlo Park, CA; sales@awiwine.com

Good medium red. Musky raspberry and brown spices on the nose; a bit low-pitched for the vintage. Soft and sweet, but with less definition and grip than the Gevrey village wine. Finishes with slightly dry-edged tannins and a leathery note.