2011 Le Difese

The 2011 Le Difese pays homage to that past with the hunting dogs and a wild boar depicted on the label. This 70-30 blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Sangiovese would indeed pair perfectly with game dishes such as fettuccine in rabbit sauce or wild boar sausage thanks to that extra touch of acidity that cuts through any fattiness. Dried cherry, blackberry, leather and tobacco enhance the wine’s medium build and silky texture. There is a distant touch of overripe fruit at the very beginning. Le Difese is aged for 12 months in both French and American oak. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2018. The buzz is back. Italy’s most iconic wine estate – the ground zero for all fine wine made in the country today – has entered an exciting new chapter with a renewed sense of purpose. This change was not sparked by any single event, rather a confluence of events starting with a fortuitous string of great vintages. I point to the 2009 Sassicaia that so closely recalls the glorious 1985 in its beauty and profound abundance. Driving his Jeep through his vineyards, with all those little Jack Russell heads straining through the open windows, Marchese Nicolo Incisa della Rocchetta has good reason to smile. Much of coastal Tuscany once served as a giant hunting reserve for Florentine nobility. Importer: Kobrand Corp.; www.kobrandwineandspirits.com

The 2011 Le Difese is a fabulous introductory level red. Freshly cut flowers meld into red berries in a juicy, expressive red that will drink well for the next few years. A soft, creamy finish rounds out this accessible and highly appealing red from San Guido. There is a lot to like here.

A Cabernet Sauvignon/Sangiovese blend designed to be drunk young. You can taste the American oak. I asked Nicolò Incisa why the American oak: ‘Because it's cheaper,' I was told matter-of-factly.  (JR)