2007 Meursault Clos du Cromin

The Javillier 2007 Meursault Clos du Cromin seems to represent a vintage’s reinforcement of the usually forward and flattering personality that typifies young wine from this site. Faded lily, very ripe peach, pineapple, and musk melon in the nose gain refreshment and vivacity on the palate from an infusion of fresh lemon and grapefruit, along with a lick of salt. This finishes lushly, generously ripe but without becoming fat or its decadence precluding some refreshment. The wines from this site can fool you, taking on some structure and showing a second phase of personality after a few years in bottle, but I would still be inclined to plan on drinking this one within the next 3-4 years. Patrick Javillier began picking on September 3rd, but only finished (with his Savigny) mid-month. He chaptalized lightly, keeping all of the wines under 13%. He thinks his 2007 results capture “the spirit and purity of 1984, but with less acidity, and perhaps a bit that of 1979.” But the wines of Javillier were very different and far less exciting even a dozen years ago than they are today, so in that sense these comparisons are moot. (His favorites for drinking now, by the way, are his 1990s.) And I have never tasted a more impeccably balanced or consistently delicious and intriguing collection at this address than these 2007s. For some general notes on Javillier’s approach to vinification, consult my report in issue 180. A Peter Vezan Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011 33 1 42 55 42 93