2006 Nuits St Georges Les Boudots

Ripe purple plum with high-toned prunelle distillate and maraschino accompaniments scents the Leroy 2006 Nuits-St.-Georges Les Boudots, which proceeds to offer an especially refined and lushly-textured, subtly stone-paved palate. There's structure here, but the tannins are not so much covered over with fruit a la 2005 chez Leroy as woven almost imperceptivity into a fine tapestry with fruit, animal, and mineral strands. Smoky notes of Latakia tobacco and peat tinge the long finish. This should be one of those 2006s you can savor with fascination any year for the next dozen or more. The results achieved by Lalou Bize-Leroy in 2006 are all the more notable in view of the misgivings she expressed early on about this vintage. (And, as her reaction to 2004 demonstrates, she will not shy away from declassifying even her entire production if she feels that the wines are not up to their terroir pedigrees.) As voluptuously rich as are Bize-Leroy's 2006 reds, they preserve the sense of buoyancy and elegance common to so many of the standouts of this vintage, and one's gums will not come away fatigued by the strength of underlying tannin or the near-hyper-concentration displayed by her – to be sure awesome – 2005s. As every year, these wines represent meticulous vine manicure; miniscule yields ("above all regulated by severe pruning, not triage," Bize-Leroy emphasizes); and fidelity to biodynamic methods and metaphysics; and were bottled in the second December following the harvest. Despite their winsomeness, they have long life expectancies. Since, however, I have very little experience of their predecessors as they have matured, I have confined my prognostication to a few isolated and very general comments in the tasting notes that follow. Note that I have included as well under the heading "Leroy" the wines of Madame Bize-Leroy's Domaine d'Auvenay – its cellars located outside Saint-Romain – which now encompass two appellations in red, since inevitably when information is being sought about these wines, and even often when they are described, it is under the name "Leroy." Importer: Martine’s Wines. Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-040