2010 Morey St Denis Vieilles Vignes

The 2010 Morey St. Denis Vieilles Vignes comes across as floral and ethereal, in large part owing to the use of 50% whole clusters. Sweet spices and rose petals add complexity on the layered finish. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2025. Virgile Lignier began his harvest on September 24. Potential alcohols came in between 11.8 and 14%. The wines under 12.5% were lightly chaptalized by about a half degree. I tasted all of the 2010s from tank, where they were resting in anticipation of bottling, which was scheduled to start this January. Virgile Lignier told me he was quite surprised by the quality of the 2010s, especially the ripeness of the tannins. A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet, various American importers, including: Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404

Really bright, vibrant, energising fruit. Brilliant luminescence. Not so lengthy as the Rue de Vergy though. (RH)

Medium-deep red. Currant and mocha on the nose. Fatter but less sweet than the Rue de Vergy; more savory and closed today. Finishes with good tannic force. This tactile, saline wine, a blend of three parcels vinified with 50% whole clusters, will need time to knit.