2007 Gewurztraminer Cuvee des Comtes d'Eguisheim

3.40 g/l RS Slight mousiness on the nose and some dustiness on the palate. Dry wine that is broad and full bodied but without much Gewurz character. Hot finish. (JR)

Bright straw-yellow. Pure, sexy aromas of spiced meats and clove. Broad, spicy and fat with fruit; as rich and horizontal as this is in the mouth, it also boasts terrific definition and subtlety. This, too, tastes sweeter than its four grams of sugar would indicate. But note that this wine will doubtless come across as drier and even more classic by the time it's released: Beyer was about to ship the 2003 (!) at the time of my visit. An outstanding vintage for this bottling.

Rose petal, celery seed, and cinnamon in the nose of Beyer’s 2007 Gewurztraminer Comtes d’Eguisheim lead to rich and voluminous yet juicy, bright palate, with smoked meats, brown spices, and peat in profusion. This is very consistent with old-fashioned Beyer Gewurztraminer virtues, and even the rare vintage of yore that – like this one – flirted with alcoholic heat, managed to live long and prosper, as 1967 and 1989 are my witnesses. The makings of at least a 12-15 year keeper are here, and by the time Marc Beyer gets ready to release it, this should show yet more interest. A 2006 Gewurztraminer Reserve – essentially declassified Comtes d’Eguisheim – was not without interest, but a bit bitter and fungal to be at all strongly recommended. ||Because Marc Beyer and his father always permitted their wines to ferment to dryness, non-Riesling bottlings at 14-15% alcohol were not uncommon here even in the ‘70s and ‘80s, when they were considered extreme simply in view of the ripeness that Beyers and their sites made possible. But those wines were very seldom compromised by roughness, heat, or leadenness. The same can be said today, except that now Beyers are mavericks for remaining committed on principle to dryness, and sweet wines in Alsace routinely exceed 14.5%. The 2006 vintage was not only inherently challenging, but also ill-suited to the Beyer house style, and nearly wholesale declassification was their response. Marc Beyer relates that he twice commenced picking his 2007s and then called a halt because it took so long for flavors to ripen and acids to moderate. The better 2007 cuvees are only beginning to show their potential, a circumstance which dovetails nicely with that other tradition to which Beyer and a few fellow Alsacienne are among the world’s only remaining adherents, namely late release – often after years in bottle.||Imported by Aveniu (A.V.) Brands, Baltimore, MD; tel. (410) 884-9463 eRobertParker.com.April, 2010