2005 Barolo Bricco Boschis

Cavallotto’s 2005 Barolo Bricco Boschis is one of the stars of the vintage. It possesses gorgeous depth and striking overall balance. Dark cherries, smoke, tobacco and new leather are some of the notes that flow from this beautifully crafted, extroverted Barolo. The 2005 is just beginning to develop additional complexity in its bouquet. This is one of the few cases where I preferred the 2005 to the 2006. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2030. Cavallotto has been on a tear of late. This year I tasted a number of exceptional wines from this small, family-run property. In particular, readers should keep an eye out for the estate’s 2005s. Late flowering that year reduced the crop by nearly 50% and resulted in a set of huge, powerful wines that are atypical for the vintage and that should age exquisitely over the coming years. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including: de Grazia Imports; tel. (417) 732-4200; Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Estate Wines Ltd., San Rafael CA; tel. (415) 492-9411, Robert Houde Wines, Bensenville IL; tel. (630) 422-1119

Good medium red. Vinous cherry, plum and redcurrant aromas complicated by leather and tobacco nuances. Dense, sweet and juicy, with plenty of brisk acidity to leaven the impression of breadth. Finishes with firm, dusty tannins and excellent length. I love the impression of brooding energy.

The 2005 Barolo Bricco Boschis is gorgeous and linear in its expressive aromatics and focused core of fruit. Medium in body, the wine reveals outstanding balance and depth, with gorgeous inner perfume and a long, refined close. Sweet notes of menthol, raspberries and spices linger on the finish. The 2005 doesn't' have the sheer exuberance of the 2004 and the firm tannins might make this wine hard to fully appreciate in its infancy, but with some time in bottle, this too will very likely develop into a gem.