1988 Gevrey Chambertin Clos de la Justice

The Gevrey-Chambertin-Clos de la Justice is produced from a parcel of vines that everyone says is "on the wrong side" of N 74. Yet this wine continues to defy all of the experts. The Bourees have long shown that the combination of old vines, careful viticultural practices, and minimal intervention when making and cellaring the wine, can produce higher-quality wines from this parcel than from many of Gevrey-Chambertin's Premiers Crus. The 1988 is spicy, earthy, and rich with deeply etched flavors, and plenty of tannin and body. It should last for 10-15 years, perhaps longer. While I am rarely ever enthralled by Bouree Pere et Fils' white wines, the red wines are of extremely high quality, particularly in the top vintages. They are very traditional burgundies that are vatted for over three weeks, kept in old oak barrels, and bottled unfiltered. In fact, the Bouree Pere et Fils may be the last firm in the Cote d'Or to bottle their burgundies in a top vintage. This firm maintains a surprisingly low profile and its prices are extremely reasonable considering the quality of their wines. Burgundy lovers should search out some of their excellent 1988s.