2007 Hermitage Le Chevalier de Sterimberg

Another big wine is the rich 2007 Hermitage Chevalier de Sterimberg blanc, which offers a honeyed richness, tropical fruit, marmalade, quince, and white currant characteristics. Medium to full-bodied and long, it should evolve for 10-15 years. I have previously documented the decline in quality at this estate following the tragic death of Gerard Jaboulet. That ended in the unexpected sale of Paul Jaboulet-Aine to the Frey family that has done such brilliant work at Bordeaux’s Chateau La Lagune, and are major shareholders in the superb Champagne house of Billecart-Salmon. No doubt they will resurrect the reputation and the quality of the Jaboulet wines, as this was the leading estate in the northern Rhone during the sixties, seventies, and eighties. The Freys have already made some dramatic changes, moving toward eliminating the negociant line of wines, and concentrating exclusively on estate bottled offerings. They own over 120 acres in the northern Rhone as well as 14+ acres in the southern Rhone. The following offerings reflect the recent changes and a work in progress, with the 2006s still under-performing (the Frey family was not in a position to do much in that vintage). The 2007s are clearly better, and I believe that in a few years, when the northern Rhone has its next great vintage, consumers will see a dramatic increase in quality as the new owners have already brought in the world-famous oenologist, Professor Denis Dubourdieu as a consultant. Any readers who have some of the old vintages of Crozes-Hermitage Domaine de Thalabert in their cellars should be checking them out. The 1978 and 1990 are still brilliant wines, but neither the 2006 or the 2007 will invoke memories of those wines. Importer: Frederick Wildman, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700

Light gold. Intensely floral bouquet of honeysuckle, magnolia, papaya, dried peach, smoked meat and minerals. Round and fleshy on entry but firmer-edged in the middle, showing vivid pit and exotic fruit character and a stony undercurrent. Smoothly blends richness and sappy energy, finishing with excellent lift and cut. A sweet note of yellow plum lingers seductively.

Reticent nose, but you can smell the gumminess of the Marsanne (blended with 35% Roussanne). Intense and noble and interesting and still rather strict, but a really interesting wine that is full bodied. Has no obvious trace of oak and promises an explosion of gorse and gum (that you stick paper with) and greater riches. Less dramatic than Chapoutier's whites but very valid style. (JR)