2001 Barolo Sori Ginestra

The 2001 Barolo Sori Ginestra emerges with a bouquet redolent of crushed flowers, tobacco, spices and mint, all of which come together beautifully. The integration of fruit and oak is more harmonious than it is in the Gris. Even with all of the textural richness, the slightly forward aromatics suggest the 2001 is at or close to peak. There is plenty of muscle here, but I would prefer to enjoy the 2001 over the next few years. The downside risk to holding this wine further is just too great. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2016. Claudio Conterno and Guido Fantino did a fabulous job with their 2001 Baroli, two wines that have held up quite nicely. The 2001s were aged in 100% new French oak barrels. Importer: Empson, USA, Alexandria, VA; tel. (703) 684-0900

The estate's Barolo Sorì Ginestra is the wine it is most famous for and the 2001 has been full of promise since I first tasted it from barrel in March 2004. The darkest of the three wines, it displays a classic Ginestra nose of menthol, pine, underbrush, spices and minerals. This superbly balanced and refined Barolo offers intense dark cherry fruit, with tremendous sustain and persistence. Notes of tar and menthol become more pronounced as the wine sits in the glass. It is perhaps even more impressive than it was when I last tasted it a year ago. A great effort.

Good deep medium red. Brooding aromas of red berries, red cherry, minerals and sweet oak. Thick and lush but juicy, with lovely minerality contributing to the impression of grip. Wonderfully pure, sweet red fruit flavors. This, too, builds impressively toward the back and lingers impressively on the aftertaste. The finish features lush, suave tannins that coat the front teeth and incisors. A great 2001 Barolo.