2008 Riesling QbA

Fresh raspberry and blueberry; clover and honeysuckle scent the Donnhoff 2008 Riesling, then mingle with lime and orange cream on a delicate, refreshing palate, transparent to crushed stone, salt, and iodine, and leading to a sappy, dynamic finish. Despite the strong acid profile of 2008, Donnhoff dialed back the residual sugar here and with his Kabinetts, a decision he and I discussed in the context of my repeatedly-voiced concerns that the schizoid tendencies that beset increasingly many German growers (either the wine must be legally trocken or pronouncedly sweet) infiltrate even this address. In the present instance we have an impeccably-balanced outstanding value that will remain delicious for at least a decade not that many if any wine lovers are going to test this. It was back to the roots this year, announced a beaming Helmut Donnhoff when I arrived to taste his 2008s. He harvested in the last week of October and first half of November during which time he characterized the weather as cool and stable. I can guarantee you, he added, that we didn't for a single day have muddy boots. Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300