2004 Trebbiano d'Abruzzo
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Tasting notes
A deep golden color, the 2004 Trebbiano d’Abruzzo shows its maturity while maintaining marvelous freshness and vivid fruit. Roasted almonds, yellow flowers, wax and iodine rise up effortlessly from the glass. It splashes across the palate with silken textures as a core of brisk acidity adds a slightly bitter note. Citrus-tinged apricots and nectarines swirl throughout. The 2004 tapers off clean, leaving gingery spice and an herbal flourish to linger on. The energy and verve demonstrated by the 2004 will likely carry it for many more years to come. What a glorious evolution.
Critic scores
Average Score
Antonio Galloni, Vinous
Walter Speller, jancisrobinson.com
More reviews and scores
The 2004 Trebbiano d’Abruzzo from Emidio Pepe is poured blind and shows slight turbidity in the glass. The nose has a little oxidation, roasted walnuts mixed with sea spray, beeswax scents and a hint of kelp seaweed. The palate is medium-bodied with a bracing line of acidity and arresting bitterness on the finish that might be off-putting to some. Personally, I appreciate the uncompromising nature of this Trebbiano, almost penetrating in intensity, and as it approaches 20 years of age, I can imagine it offering another dozen years of drinking pleasure.
Cold year but without much rain. Intense straw yellow. Fabulous nose bursting with minerals and a bit of struck match, flinty stone and a hint of porcini. The fruit is slowly taking a back seat. Spice and that hint of raw meat again. Minerally, subtle and with a gorgeous waxy, mandarin finish. With aeration a suggestion of soy sauce – the saline aspect comes to the fore. (WS)
The 2004 Trebbiano d'Abruzzo reveals an intriguing array of smoke, earthiness, matchstick, tobacco, apricots and ripe white peaches. This beautifully-layered, complex wine is sure to acquire even more complexity in bottle. It is one of Italy's most distinctive whites.
About the producer
Emidio Pepe is a star of the Abruzzo region and one of Italy’s most famous names. Worshipped by natural-wine lovers for its low-intervention approach, this estate makes category-defying, age-worthy examples of Montepulciano, Trebbiano and Cerasolo d’Abruzzo, as well as Pecorino Colli Aprutini.