2010 Gevrey Chambertin Bel Air

The 2010 Gevrey-Chambertin Bel Air is another totally gracious wine. Layers of ripe red stone fruit, crushed rocks, white flowers and minerals flesh out in this gorgeous Gevrey. High-toned floral notes add lift on the open bouquet and finish. This is all finesse and class. The Bel Air is the most mineral-driven and finessed of the 1er Crus here. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2030. Romain Taupenot lost between 25-40% of his 2010 production to the poor weather, although some of his lower lying parcels were down as much as 80%. Fortunately the Grand Crus were down only 15% on average. The harvest began on September 23. Taupenot reported that the fruit required some sorting in the winery. Importers: Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620, Imported by Scott Paul Wines, Carlton, OR; tel. (503) 852 7300; J.A.O. Wine Imports, McLean, VA; contact@jaowineimports.com

Here the aromatic profile changes and becomes more openly animale yet there is still a certain elegance to the red raspberry, stone, earth and forest floor scents. There is very much the feeling of restraint to the cool, delineated and impressively intense and focused middle weight flavors that possess excellent punch if not quite the depth of the La Riotte. By contrast, there is even better length so it will be interesting to compare them next year once they are bottled. Allen Meadows, Burghound.com

From the vineyard just above Clos de Bèze. Intense and open and seductive but with great energy underneath. Hint of liquorice. Something quite mineral. Exciting. Jancis Robinson, jancisrobinson.com