The Thienponts reign over Bordeaux’s Right Bank. At Vieux Château Certan, Alexandre Thienpont – almost always dressed in his Barbour – rules, producing Pomerol of immaculate pedigree, as his family has for over a century now. Nearby, cousin Jacques Thienpont holds court at Le Pin, Pomerol’s original cult address. Nicolas Thienpont is another cousin whose domain stretches out from Saint-Emilion – from Pavie Macquin and Larcis Ducasse across to several estates in the Côte des Francs. And the dynasty continues to grow, as each thread of this complex family finds a new corner of the region to master.  The Flemish family has a long history in the world of wine, having traded French wine (especially Bordeaux) since 1842. Georges Thienpont – grandfather of Jacques, Alexandre and Nicolas) was the first to move into production, buying Ch. Troplong Mondot in 1921, then Vieux Château Certan in 1924. It wasn’t long before the Great Depression hit, however, and Georges Thienpont was forced to sell Troplong Mondot in 1934. Reportedly the only reason he kept Vieux Château Certan was that no one wanted to buy it – with vines holding little allure at the time. It was the château itself at Troplong Mondot, positioned at the highest point in the region and with a view across the village of Saint-Emilion, that allowed him to sell the Saint-Emilion estate. Georges continued to make wine through the Second World War and the devastating frost of 1956. Despite a challenging start, “VCC” (as it is affectionately known by wine-lovers) has become one of Bordeaux’s leading names.  It was Jacques Thienpont, however, who thrust the family firmly into the limelight. It was in 1979 that Jacques, then still a Belgian wine merchant, purchased a 1.6-hectare vineyard in Pomerol. The site had produced generic Pomerol, but Jacques started making tiny volumes of opulently styled wine, naming it after the lone pine tree (“le pin”) that stood on the property. The 1982 vintage was pivotal, receiving significant critical acclaim – especially from Robert Parker – and soon Le Pin became one of the world’s most desirable wines.  Just over 30 years after that first vineyard purchase, it seemed like fate when Jacques went to see a plot of land in Saint-Emilion right next to Troplong Mondot. Previously known as Ch. Haut-Plantey, the potential of the site was clear to Jacques and the symmetry of the Thienponts returning to where their family’s winemaking legacy began seemed fitting. He bought the property in 2010 and put Cyrille Thienpont (his cousin once removed) in charge of its daily running. In keeping with the arboreal theme, he named the Saint-Emilion venture L’If (the yew tree).  The first project the team undertook was a detailed soil map to get to grips with the site. The winery is in Saint-Laurent-des-Combes, just to the east of Troplong Mondot, with five hectares of vineyard around it and another two hectares of west-facing vines next to Saint-Hippolyte. The lower parcels are more eroded and sandier, but much of the vineyard sits on pure limestone and clay. They set about restructuring the vineyard – getting rid of the 5% Cabernet Sauvignon and increasing the portion of Cabernet Franc, with around 25% across the property today (any new plantings were with a massal selection from Pavie Macquin).  In 2013, Jacques bought another hectare or so of vines in Saint-Etienne-de-Lisse, right next to Ch. Puy-Blanquet. Despite the quality of the soils, Jacques was hesitant about buying such a “distant” plot, a whopping three kilometres as the crow flies – or a circa 10-minute drive. They pulled the vines out and replanted this additional parcel, harvesting its first fruit in 2018. Despite its youth, the fruit from the plot has made it into the final blend for every vintage of L’If since 2020 (“Worth the trip,” jokes Cyrille). Even with the significant replanting and this new plot, the average age of vines across the estate is around 40 – with the oldest over 60 years in age.  Work on a new winery finished just in time for the 2023 harvest, allowing greater precision and flexibility – with more space to work (and 16 concrete tanks for their eight hectares of vines). You might expect a flashy building, perhaps designed by a famous architect – but that’s not the Thienpont way. Understatement is everything for this family – and the winery is an almost exact replica of what stood there before, simply with more space inside, designed for simple functionality. In one corner stands an otherwise anonymous stainless-steel tank – the first one that Jacques bought for Le Pin back in 1979.  It was perhaps inevitable that L’If would sit in Le Pin’s shadow. But now, 15 years after Jacques Thienpont bought the estate, with a new winery and the significant work in the vineyards completed, L’If is building its own reputation.  Although the same team is largely involved in both estates, L’If is a totally different site and wine. The cool soils have better water-holding capacity, and budburst is around 10 days later than at Le Pin with its warm free-draining gravels – a gap that often widens as the growing season progresses, meaning harvest is significantly later here. Diana Berrouet Garcia – who acts as Managing Director for Domaines Jacques Thienpont, including both Le Pin and L’If – notes how at L’If the terroir seems to speak louder than the vintage and can better adapt to more challenging conditions, while the vines can struggle – especially in hot, dry years – at Le Pin. Where Le Pin is round, supple and exotic, L’If is linear, taut and mineral; one sensual and spherical, the other just on the right side of severe, with a crystalline quality. Even in the last few years, it’s amazing how the wine is evolving – nipping at Le Pin’s toes in terms of quality. Re-tasting the 2019, it’s amazingly approachable with a perfumed nose and juicy, pure fruit that complements the wine’s natural tension.   It's still comparatively early days for L’If –  and the team has invested significantly, focusing on shaping the vineyard and ensuring they have the tools in the winery to translate the work in the vines. For now, over half the vineyard is being used for the second wine, Les Collines d’If – something that will change in time, as they continue to replant parcels. As it happens, yews grow incredibly slowly – but are also some of the longest-living trees (Perthshire in Scotland is home to the Fortingall yew, thought to be 2,000-3,000 years old and one of the oldest trees in Europe). The Theinpont family is just settling in at L’If, but as they lay down roots, the potential is clear.   The Thienpont family: who does what?  Jacques Thienpont: Owns Le Pin, L’If and L’Hêtre (the latter with his sister Anne de Raeymaeker), but is also a co-owner of Vieux Château Certan. He oversees the family’s original Belgian wine merchant business, the Belgian Royal Warrant-holding Thienpont Wine, which is managed by his wife and award-winning wine writer Fiona Morrison MW.  Alexandre Thienpont: Co-owns and manages Vieux Château Certan with his son, Guillaume, as well as co-owning Le Pin with Jacques. Alexandre and Guillaume also farm the vines at Le Pin, L’If and L’Hêtre, as well as Vieux Château Certan.  Guillaume Thienpont: Manages Vieux Château Certan with his father, Alexandre, as well as making L’Etoile and Les Fillottes with his second cousin, François Thienpont. He also now manages Ch. Guillot-Clauzel, which is not owned by the family.  François Thienpont: Manages the family’s négociant business, Wings, as well as making L’Etoile and Les Fillottes with Guillaume Thienpont and is a co-owner of both Vieux Château Certan and Ch. Puygueraud.  Nicolas Thienpont: Owns and/or manages a group of estates with his son Cyrille: Pavie Macquin, Larcis Ducasse, La Prade, Laclaverie, Charmes Godard and Puygueraud.  Cyrille Thienpont: Owns and manages the Nicolas Thienpont group of properties with his father, as well as managing and making the wine at L’If.  There are many more members of the Thienpont family involved in wine, but these are the most prominent at the time of writing.   Explore all current listings of L’If or read more about Bordeaux 

Le Pin is one of the world’s most famous wines – but it’s just one of the Thienpont family projects. We dissect the dynasty and explore the evolution of L’If, the Saint-Emilion estate that is emerging as one of the region’s most exciting names

Jacques Thienpont created cult Pomerol wine estate Le Pin in 1979, but now he’s got a new project in Saint-Emilion, Bordeaux: L’If 

Exploring L’If: Le Pin’s Saint-Emilion sibling 

James Suckling  James Suckling was the first out with part one of his report, published on 15th April, before most people have even touched down in Bordeaux. Based on his tasting of over 900 barrel samples, he is clearly a fan of the 2023 vintage.  “The best show balance and freshness with deep center palates of ripe fruit and a complement of polished tannins,” he writes – saying that he even likes them more than the very highly rated 2022s. He feels they’re more classically built, with “tensioned mouthfeels and energetic finishes” which makes them “so Bordeaux”.  It is, however, not “an across-the-board home run”, with some wines not matching 2022 for quality at the lower level – but “top terroirs and top winemakers delivered terrific-quality wines”. He compares 2023 to the 2019, 2001 or even 1990 vintages for the reds, with lower alcohol and vibrant acidity levels that make them “some of the brightest and liveliest red Bordeaux [he’s] tasted in years”.  In the second part of his report, he added 2016, 1996 or 1995 to his list of comparable years – those with “ripe, balanced fruit and firm tannins with slightly lower alcohol and lower pH”. While some have noted “the inconsistent nature of the vintage”, this isn’t something he agrees with, writing, “I found a very high level of quality”. For him, their “transparency and freshness” made them some of the most enjoyable wines to taste en primeur, comparing them to 2019 for their brightness. The question, of course, is price – and he’s hopeful that producers will get it right. Suckling’s highlights: Canon, Le Pin, Margaux, Pavie, Montrose, Pétrus, Ausone, Cheval Blanc, Cos d’Estournel, Haut-Brion, Hosanna, Lafleur, Latour, Les Carmes Haut-Brion, Mouton Rothschild, Pavie-Macquin, Pichon Comtesse, Smith Haut Lafitte, Trottevieille  Read part one and two of James Suckling’s report, along with his full notes and scores William Kelley – Wine Advocate For Kelley, 2023 is “make or break” for Bordeaux in terms of pricing, warning that if prices don’t drop significantly “difficult times lie ahead”, but he is clear on the quality of the wines: “The best 2023s are just as exciting as the best 2022s”. Running through the growing season, he emphasises how the time between flowering and harvest was typical – meaning that the best combine “the depth, density and ripe tannin of a sunny vintage but also the vibrant, expressive aromas and flavors of a more traditionally ‘Atlantic’ season”. Mildew impacted yields in some instances, but it seems for him that picking dates and sorting were those that influenced the quality of the vintage most. It is “a hybrid vintage” he says – combining characters of both modern, sunny vintages and more traditionally classic years. They offer “fully ripe tannins and suave, seamless mouthfeels” but “vibrant aromas and flavors, evocative of fresh fruits and flowers” – yet are “far from frivolous” with the structure and pH that will allow them to age. Those who picked a little early have produced wines dominated by their tannin, however generally this is a vintage that “tended to amplify the voice of each estate and terroir”. As with last year, individual reviews were divided between Kelley and Yohan Castaing – so there are notes from both. The Wine Advocate’s highlights: Lafleur, Cheval Blanc, La Conseillante, Montrose, Pétrus, Pichon Comtesse, Lafite Rothschild, Les Carmes Haut-Brion, Pontet-Canet, Beau-Séjour Bécot, Beauséjour, Figeac, Canon Read the Wine Advocate's full report, notes and scores
 
Lisa Perrotti-Brown MW – The Wine Independent Following on from her preliminary coverage, Lisa Perrotti-Brown MW has published her full report. She emphasises the unpredictability of the growing season, a “game of Jumanji” that came with “a roll-of-the-dice element of luck” when it came to rain. While she emphasises that this is not “a ‘classic’ great growing season nor a consistent one”, there are “some classically styled wines at the pinnacles of greatness” that have “emerged from the 2023 Bordeaux jungle”. It is, she says, a “devil-in-the-details vintage”, with these details revealing why some triumphed and others didn’t. She echoes others describing the more classic feel to the year, “delivering fresher, more elegant, energetic styles” that will appeal to more traditional Bordeaux drinkers. Some producers “have potentially produced their best wines ever”. Talking about the mildew threat and its impact on yields, she explains that large estates with the financial means or smaller, family-owned estates that could offer the necessary overtime could both succeed, but others lost more of their crop, and – if diseased fruit was not sorted out – could impact quality, giving “rustic characters to some of the 2023 wines”. It was also key, she notes, to sort out any sunburnt or dried fruit. Other important decisions were picking each parcel when it was perfectly ripe, and avoiding potential dilution – something not all managed. She highlights that the Pomerol plateau and limestone/clay terroirs of Saint-Emilion produced “more winners”, while there are “wines of true greatness” on the Left Bank, courtesy of “herculean efforts” by producers. She ends noting how Bordeaux continues to offer great value at the lower end – “down-right delicious bargains worth seeking out”. Lisa Perrotti-Brown MW’s highlights: Ausone, Canon, Haut-Brion, Lafleur, Le Pin, Pavie, Pétrus, Vieux Château Certan, Margaux, Cheval Blanc, L’Eglise-Clinet, La Conseillante, Lafite Rothschild, Montrose, Pontet-Canet Read Lisa Perrotti-Brown MW’s full report 
Neal Martin – Vinous Neal Martin has rushed out his report ahead of the first releases, rapidly followed by Antonio Galloni (below). Running through the growing season, Martin describes how “Mother Nature kept winemakers guessing”. He tries to clarify the concern over mildew – pressure that varied by microclimate and estate, and was inflated by early media coverage, but the impact of which depended entirely on how producers handled it. He has dubbed it “The Dalmatian Vintage” – writing that it offers “spots of astounding quality”, but that it is heterogenous, and therefore not “a bona fide great vintage”, but putting it firmly alongside 2016, 2020 and 2022 with some “magical wines”. He describes them as more classical in style, not possessing “the opulence and Rubenesque bodies” of 2022, but “more linear and vertical” but with more fruit than 2021, a style that he confesses “appeals to [his predilection”. He highlights a “nascent energy” that he observes in the best wines, and that terroir seems to shine through particularly strongly. He declares it “a great vintage for dry whites”, but suggests the Sauternes fall just short of great (although Suduiraut is one of his top-scorers). Throughout, he highlights how financial resources were key – to spray as and when needed against mildew, to sacrifice yields, to pick and vinify by plot, not to mention precision in the winery. Ultimately, “human decisions were critical throughout” – but 2023 is “bejeweled with a clutch of spellbinding wines”. Neal Martin’s highlights: L’Eglise-Clinet, Margaux, Lafleur, Le Pin, Suduiraut, La Conseillante, Pichon Comtesse, Haut-Bailly, Mouton Rothschild, Haut-Brion, Montrose, Figeac, Cheval Blanc, Ausone Read Neal Martin’s full report, notes and scores on Vinous Antonio Galloni – Vinous Following just behind his colleague Neal Martin, Antonio Galloni managed to get his report out as the campaign started. He attributes the “fine, almost classical, balance” of the wines to the year’s more generous yields, and – like others – notes how the best estates were able to manage mildew pressure to avoid significant impact. The best wines, he says, are “intensely aromatic and perfumed” with “bright acids, red-toned fruit and linear, vibrant tannins” – generally with “very clear markers of place”, although he argues that the weakest 2023s “can feel light and/or vegetal”. For him, the Left Bank was marginally more successful than the Right, with Saint-Estèphe a standout commune in his tastings – declaring the wines “superb, pretty much at all levels”, along with those of Marguax – highlighting Palmer, Margaux and Rauzan-Ségla, in particular.  He disagrees with Martin when it comes to the whites – both dry and sweet: for him the dry whites are “a mixed bag”, while the Sauternes are “the most exceptional group of young wines [he has] ever tasted here”, finding it an “epic vintage” for Sauternes and Barsac.  Antonio Galloni’s highlights: Palmer, Figeac, Giscours, Troplong Mondot, Domaine de Chevalier Blanc, Suduiraut, L’Extravagant de Doisy-Daéne, Suduiraut Pur Sémillon, Doisy-Daéne Blanc Sec, Lascombes, Beau-Séjour Bécot, Clos Saint-Julien, Grand-Puy Ducasse, Guillot-Clauzel, Haut-Bergey, Laroque, Pressac, Reynon, Marjosse Blanc Read Antonio Galloni’s full report, notes and scores on Vinous
 
Jane Anson – Inside Bordeaux  For Jane Anson, the 2023 vintage shows the “effortless construction” that Bordeaux does best – “producing well balanced, structured wines that are made to delight over the long term”. She has given all her potential 100-point scores to the Left Bank and feels that it is “a Cabernet Sauvignon year, particularly in the sweet spot of the northern Médoc”.  As with others she notes that, while there are some excellent wines, it is a variable vintage and “in 2023 if you made the wrong choice, you were punished particularly quickly”. She finds Margaux and Pessac-Léognan less consistent than Saint-Julien, Pauillac and Saint-Estèphe.  She praises the “more nuanced, terroir and estate-driven feel to the wines” on both Left and Right Banks, something she favours over the richness of the 2022s. She writes that there will be little need to wait to drink the wines, but “many have the structure to go the distance”.  For her, there are some “exceptional white wines” – “nuanced wines with excellent aromatics”. The sweet whites are richer, yet with bright acidity – wines that she “seriously recommend[s] buying”. For each of her reports, on the Left Bank, Right Bank and whites, she has provided a list of value buys – alongside her top-scoring wines.  Anson’s highlights: Haut-Brion, Mouton Rothschild, Lafite Rothschild, Pontet-Canet, Beauséjour, Cheval Blanc, Figeac, Haut-Brion Blanc, Lafleur, Latour, Léoville Las Cases, Léoville Poyferré, Margaux, Montrose, Pichon Comtesse, Smith Haut Lafitte Blanc  Read Jane Anson’s report on the Left Bank, Right Bank and white wines  Read Jane Anson’s commentary on the early releases  
Georgie Hindle – Decanter  The Decanter team released their report in sections, with Panos Kakaviatos helping support the heavily pregnant Georgie Hindle. Their extensive coverage of the growing season dives into the complex conditions that defined the year. For Hindle, the wines “set a new tone for fine, controlled and accessible Bordeaux” with moderate alcohols, low pHs as well as juicy, ripe fruit. They combine “finely-integrated tannins” and “plushly textured bodies” of warmer years, with “a raciness, tension, spice, minerality and delicate floral aromatics more commonly found in cooler vintages”, and speak of their appellation and estate.  Qualitatively, she puts it well above 2017 or 2021, yet confesses does not have the consistent quality of 2019, 2020 or 2022; even though some 2023s out-do their 2022 counterparts, with “elegance and energy”. Because of the inconsistency, it is a vintage that earns a 3.75 rating (out of five) for reds, and four for both dry and sweet whites. The best reds, she writes, are “precise, pure and approachable”; that said, “not everyone got it right in 2023” – often those from “less vaunted terroirs” that she admits are “mostly likely to be found outside the sphere of the wines sold en primeur”. Despite that, there are “lovely wines at all price-points”. The highlights we have picked out below combine some of their top-scoring wines, along with their most improved and “under-the-radar” selections.  Decanter’s highlights: Beauséjour, Bélair-Monange, Canon, Figeac, La Conseillante, Léoville Las Cases, Latour, Margaux, Montrose, Palmer, Pichon Comtesse, Vieux Château Certan, Lascombes, Pavie, Monbousquet, Barbe Blanche, Vieux Château St André, La Vieille Curé, De Chambrun  Read Decanter’s reports on the growing season, yields, the style of the wines, verdict and top-scoring wines  Jeb Dunnuck  It seems that the style of the 2023s doesn’t suit Jeb Dunnuck’s palate, feeling they are “ripe yet not massive or incredibly concentrated” and finds there are “divergent styles”, with some closer to the sunny 2019 and some more structured and cooler like 2020. He agrees that: “Yields, blends, pick dates, and luck with mildew and rain all make generalizations regarding 2023 fraught with peril.”  For him the combination of “ripe aromatics, good freshness, and focused, more medium to medium to full-bodied, linear profiles that make the vintage so interesting” – something he attributes to the condensed ripening period at the end of the season. He feels that although there are “unquestionably impressive wines from the Right Bank”, the Left Bank won this year – offering “another level of harmony and overall balance”.   Jeb Dunnuck’s highlights: Montrose, La Mission Haut-Brion, Margaux, Cheval Blanc, Doisy Daëne, Haut-Brion, Mouton Rothschild, Palmer, Smith Haut Lafitte, Suduiraut, Valandraud Blanc, Vieux Château Certan  Read Jeb Dunnuck’s full report  NB Jeff Leve, aka The Wine Cellar Insider, has released his notes and scores but no report. Check his scores in our comparison chart, or find them all on his site  Compare all the critics’ scores in our comparison chart, or find out more about Bordeaux 2023 

After weeks and months of tasting, the world’s leading wine critics are announcing their verdict on the latest Bordeaux vintage. Here you’ll find a round-up of what they’re all saying, with a summary of each report and the wines they rated most highly added as they’re released 

Your essential crib-sheet to what the world’s leading wine critics are saying about Bordeaux 2023 en primeur 

Bordeaux 2023 – critics’ round-up

Bordeaux 2023: what the critics are saying

It’s never easy to pick a favourite vintage for drinking now. But producers’ eyes light up when asked, as they think back to the best bottles – and moments. Of course, it’s all a matter of taste. There are collectors who love very mature wines, while others are much more taken by younger vintages, still with a bit of primary fruit. Winemaking has also changed and – while most top Bordeaux is made for the long run – more modern vintages, with more precise viticulture and vinification, are much more approachable in their youth. 
The youngest vintages to enjoy now: 2017, 2013, 2009 + 2003 
Like many Pomerols, with their opulent fruit profile and rounded tannins, Ch. Lafleur can be enjoyed young, admits Lafleur’s cellarmaster Omri Ram. “But it’s like going to a Pink Floyd concert and leaving after the first 10 minutes. It is brilliant – but you miss so much,” he explains. Lafleur’s other Pomerol wine, Les Pensées, comes from clay soils and it is this that makes the wine that much more accessible at a younger age compared to Lafleur, from gravel soils. Ram believes, however, that the 2013 Lafleur is drinking beautifully now, despite its youth. 
Similarly, on the Left Bank, Léoville Barton’s Damien Sartorius believes that while some vintages are better with 30 years of age (2010 or 2016, say), most, especially the in-between, “off” years are best enjoyed younger – and can offer great value. “I’m very happy drinking a Lynch Bages or Poyferré from 2013 today – they’re lovely wines and it’s a lot cheaper,” he says. 
For Ducru-Beaucaillou’s Bruno Borie, choosing what vintage to drink depends on many factors: “When it’s sunny, I like to drink younger vintages. When it is cold and wintry, I prefer mature vintages, but temperature, air pressure, food, and company all plays a part in identifying what vintage to drink.” He believes even a Ducru as young as 2017 is beautiful to drink now. While he thinks the vintage was written off by the press, it is an elegant vintage and already offers great pleasure with food. Bigger vintages, such as 2010, on the other hand, still require ageing. 
Ch. Margaux, while distinctly elegant, has always been a wine built to last and winemaker Philippe Bascaules wouldn’t touch anything younger than 2009 – even the lighter 2011, ’12 and ’13 vintages, he believes, are too young. But 2009 bucks the trend in terms of its approachability: for Bascaules, it has always been enjoyable. It’s “a great wine with exceptional, very creamy texture, opulence, so powerful but not at all aggressive”, he explains. Ch. Rauzan-Ségla’s Nicolas Audebert’s pick of the younger vintages is 2003. “If 2003s are well done – as in not too much – it is extremely nice to drink. Good terroir combined with slow evolution means after 15 years in bottle it is now showing beautifully. Taste it blind and you wouldn’t think it was a such a warm year,” he suggests.
 
Under-rated and excellent now: 2014, 2012, 2011, 2004, 2001 + 1999 
Most agree that the 2001 vintage was underrated on release, drowned out by the fanfare surrounding both 2000 and 2003. “The 2001 is a very nice vintage to rediscover,” explains Audebert. “It disappeared after the hype of 2000, but it certainly has stood up well to the more celebrated vintages.” Similarly, he believes the 2011 shared a similar fate. “After the release of 2010, 2011 suffered, but it is a very nice, interesting vintage. Not showing off, but is very elegant, a very smart vintage and developing slowly.” 
Like many of the top wines of Bordeaux, you have to be patient with Ch. Lafite-Rothschild. “We make wine for the long run,” says the property’s International Director Jean-Sébastien Philippe. For him, a good vintage is a wine that seems to appear younger, the older it gets. Despite the long-term ageing potential of Lafite, the 2004 is a moderately young wine that he believes is great to enjoy now.  “It has always been very classic, but very closed and therefore underrated. With maturity, it has become an amazing wine to rediscover now,” he says. Bascaules also believes 2004 to be one of the more underrated vintages at Ch. Margaux, again because its sits between the two revered years, 2005 and 2003.  “But it’s much better than people think,” he says. “The tannins are now starting to be soft. It is very concentrated, the nose is very open. It’s very complex.” For Bascaules, the 1999 is another wine that has flown under the radar but is at its best now. “It was a very hot vintage, but not very concentrated. Therefore, the tannins are very ripe and soft, the texture is very resolved, yet the nose is still young,” he explains. 
Ram echoes Bascaules in singing 1999’s praises, with the Grand Vin at Lafleur at its peak. “It is drinking beautifully now, if you can find it, and you will get more pleasure drinking ’99 than the 2000 today. It shows beautiful balance, power versus elegance. Density versus lift. All these contradictions of fine wine show really well in the 1999. The 2000 still behaves like a juvenile in comparison.” 
He also loves 2014: “It’s an underappreciated vintage, but it is the last classical vintage in Bordeaux – charming, elegant, sophisticated.” The 2014 Ch. Canon is a perfect example, drinking beautifully now. He also highlights how successful Saint-Estèphe was that year, with lots of great wines to choose from and well-priced for the quality. For Sartorius, there is a lot of value to be found in 2012: “Léoville Las Cases, Ducru-Beaucaillou, at a very good price – they’re so good and deliver so much,” he says. 

At their peak: 2000, 1996, 1995, 1989, 1986, 1985 + 1983 
For Bascaules, Margaux at 20-30 years old is perfect. “1989 is probably drinking at its optimum today,” he says, “as is 1990. The 1985’s nose is tertiary but there is still fruit too. I like a bit of fruit still in the wine. The 1983 is a great wine and great to drink today.”
The 1983 was a classic vintage throughout the Margaux appellation, and much better than the more revered 1982, believes Audebert: “The 1983 in Margaux is much more interesting, whereas the 1982 is in danger of being over ripe.”  He explains that a ripe vintage and high volumes – at that time – was uncommon, and therefore often not something the era’s winemakers were equipped to handle. He argues that this has resulted in some 1982s from Margaux being a bit tired, producing “tapenade, metallic flavours”, and lacking vibrancy. 
Ram’s favourite vintage ever of Les Pensées has to be the 2000 – he explains it was “the first real blueprint” for the modern Les Pensées, when it switched from being a second wine to being an expression of the clay soils at Lafleur. Combine this with the fact that 2000 was a great vintage and you have a superb wine that is symbolic too. 
The 1986 is Lafite’s pick for drinking now. For Philippe, it shows what the estate is capable of: “It is the vintage that can help you really understand Lafite – the emotion and the precision,” he says. 
Wines for the ages: 1955 + 1964 Ch. Canon, 1916 Ch. Ducru-Beaucaillou 
While many Clarets will reach their 50th birthday, some vintages can last even longer. Nicolas Audebert recently tasted Ch. Canon from 1955 and ’64, two fantastic vintages for the château, which were both still drinking beautifully. Bruno Borie more recently enjoyed a 1916 Ducru-Beaucaillou that was still in form. It is a particularly interesting vintage since it was a wine made only by women, as the men were at war.  A lovely note from the cellar master of the time suggests that “the wine might be too powerful, rich and strong for the trade”. “I’m not sure if the trade would feel the same way these days,” laughs Borie. “At 104 years old, it proves it is important to make wines with sufficient structure to pass 100 years. Even today, the wine still has plenty of character.”


We spoke to some of the region’s leading names – from the likes of Chx Canon , Ducru-Beaucaillou , Lafite-Rothschild , Lafleur and Margaux – to find out which vintages they think are at their best right now.

Chx Canon, Ducru-Beaucaillou, Lafite-Rothschild, Lafleur and Margaux on which Bordeaux vintages are entering their drinking window

Bordeaux wine vintages ready to drink now

Bordeaux vintages to drink now

Fratelli Veglio

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Due to the quantity requested, you won’t be able to select a collection date. Please submit your request, and we will liaise with our warehouse and confirm the collection date with you directly.

Due to the quantity requested, you won’t be able to continue the purchase. Please select third party, or change the quantity (maximum 48 is allowed).

Due to the quantity requested, you won’t be able to select a shipping date at checkout. Please submit your request, and we will liaise with our warehouse and confirm the delivery date with you directly.

For up to 499 bottles in storage, the rate is 39¢/bottle per month or a $50 minimum monthly charge (this covers up to 142 bottles). For over 500 bottles, the storage rate is 35¢/bottle per month.

Storage is charged at HKD 40 per 12-bottle case per month. A minimum monthly storage fee of HKD 80 applies, covering up to 24 bottles.

Standard storage rate

By selecting third-party shipping, you will take full responsibility for all aspects of legal compliance and authorize Vinfolio to transfer the items to the party specified in your instructions. Items shipped via third parties will remain in their original packaging.

Collection times are between 8:30am - 12pm & 1:30pm - 4:30pm, Monday to Friday. Wines at Will Call, that are not picked up within 10 business days, will be transferred to storage and subject to a $1.50 per bottle stocking fee.

Items to be sourced and shipped to our state-of-the-art fine wine storage facility for the best possible safe-keeping where you can arrange collection from our warehouse address in Napa.

Will Call (Napa)

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We're in the final stages of upgrading to our brand-new trading platform. As part of this transition, we're currently migrating all customer-owned inventory to ensure a smooth and seamless experience.

Our new and improved platform will be ready for you on Friday, April 4.

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Sign in to your {name} account to buy, store, value and sell fine wine and spirits, and track your order history and account details.

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About description for demonstration purposes

shows all the items you currently store with us. These items can be sold, delivered or transferred.

At {shortName}

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represents all the wines that are in your possession and have been consumed.

This is the price you paid for this item.

Cost price

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The lowest price you're willing to sell at. If the net price goes below this value your listing will be removed.

shows all the items that you have pre-ordered, including en primeur wines, and all the items on your watchlist.

Futures

You can set a floor price on items you're selling based on a % of current unit net value.

You can set a market price on items you're selling based on a % of current unit net value.

shows all the actions that you have taken on items in your Portfolio.

groups every action by type - Purchase, Sale, Delivery, and Inbound Transfer - so it's clear at a glance what happened to each item.

History

shows all the items that are currently in transit to or from {shortName}.

In transit

Local delivery is free for orders over HK$1,800 (to a single location). For orders below this value, delivery is HK$150 for up to four cases and HK$50 per case thereafter.

Shipping starts from €15 within Italy and €45 to Switzerland and the rest of Europe for up to 48 bottles (75cl). Costs vary by destination. Larger shipments can be quoted on request.

The date shown below is when your order will ship from our local warehouse. Your final delivery date, along with full tracking details, will be provided once our team has processed your request.

You can arrange collection from our Retail store on 22nd Floor, 8 Wyndham Street, Central Hong Kong.
Collection times are between 9:30am-13:00 and 14:00-18:00pm, Monday to Friday. We are closed on public holidays.

You can arranged collection from our warehouse STI INTERNAZIONALE SPA, on Viale del Lavoro, 57, 37051 Bovolone, Verona.
Pick-up hours are between 8:30 AM to 12:30 PM and 1:30 PM to 5:30 PM, Monday to Friday. We are closed on public holidays.

This is the current estimated market value for this item.

Manually set prices will be overwritten. Already listed wines are not affected.

Updates all unlisted wines to current market price.

Set all at market

represents all the wines you currently have in your Portfolio that aren't stored with us. Press the

My cellar

Name

Net price

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New portfolio

You do not have any invoices at this time.

shows all the items from your Portfolio that are currently on the market.

On sale

shows all the items you currently have in your Portfolio. You can perform individual actions on them from this page.

Overview

shows any items that are currently awaiting user action.

Pending

This is the dynamic market price of the item with trading margin removed.

This is the amount of profit you will receive if your listing sells.

Pre-authorised payments enable automatic transactions on your behalf, ensuring seamless and hassle-free payments. This allows recurring charges, subscriptions, or scheduled payments to be processed without manual approval each time.

The number of cases you wish to place on sale

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Your catalogue items will be archived. Are you sure you want to continue?

Before you request delivery, you can adjust the quantity for each item in your selection below.

*Market price is dynamic and may change. At time of sale a 10% trading fee will be deducted from the final sale price.

Total market price*

The fixed custom price you wish to sell each item for.

Split into {caseSize} individual {bottleSize}cl bottles.

Title

shows all the items you currently store with us. These items can be sold.

Available for sale — items stored with {name} eligible to be listed on the marketplace.

Profile

This item is at FINE+RARE, available for storage, transfer or delivery.
 Most UK deliveries can be made within 3-5 working days, with next day delivery for London;
 an exact date will be available when arranging delivery.
 International deliveries have longer lead-times, please contact us for details.

This item is at FINE+RARE HOME Hong Kong, available for delivery or local pickup. Most Hong Kong deliveries can be made within 3 working days, an exact date will be available when arranging delivery. International deliveries have longer lead-times, please contact us for details.

Wines sold en primeur will be released from the producer after bottling, typically 18 months after the so-called campaign ends. Your wine will then be stored by FINE+RARE in a bonded warehouse until you decide to take delivery.

We will source this item at the guaranteed price from our network of suppliers and arrange expedited shipment to FINE+RARE.
 The lead-time depends on many variables, but 2-4 weeks is typical for expedited sourcing.
 Once your order is confirmed, we'll keep you updated on its ETA.
 Every item is checked on arrival by our expert team, with photographs available on request (please note that charges may apply).

We will source this item at the guaranteed price from our network of suppliers and arrange shipment to FINE+RARE.
 The lead-time depends on many variables, but 6-12 weeks is an average estimate.
 Once your order is confirmed, we'll keep you updated on its ETA.
 Every item is checked on arrival by our expert team, with photographs available on request (please note that charges may apply).

Fratelli Veglio

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