In the vineyard
Venice’s lagoon might seem an unlikely location for fine wine production, however the Dorona grape has adapted to these unique, wet conditions – and the high salinity of the soil adds stress, forcing the vines to produce more complex fruit.
It’s thought that vines have been grown in the region since the 12th century, however the floods of 1966 wiped out almost all agriculture in the area – including its vines. Gianluca Bisol stumbled on a handful of Dorona di Venezia vines that had survived on the island of Torcello, in a garden in front of the basilica, which is one of Venice's oldest churches (founded in 639). The variety is a cross between Garganega and Bernestia Branca, and has adapted to handle the region’s humidity, resisting fungal disease and dilution.
While it's easy to think of Venice as cool and damp, the summer temperatures are in fact the same as those of Bolgheri. The salt-laden winds help protect the vines, with the salt acting as an antiseptic and shielding from fungal disease.
Dorona di Venezia is planted on a 0.8-hectare plot on Mazzorbo (for Venissa Bianco and Venusa). The vines are ungrafted and planted at high density. The Bisol family has invested in irrigation channels to improve drainage.
Despite the Mazzorbo vineyard being just 0.8 hectares, the estate has identified 28 different micro-zones which differ in the levels of salinity in the soil. It is the salinity in the soil that naturally reduces the yields and concentrates the flavour. The fruit from the soils with the highest salt content within these micro-zones goes into Venissa Bianco, while the rest becomes Venusa – producing two different expressions of this singular site.
Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, for Venissa Rosso, come from 2.75 hectares of vines on nearby Santa Cristina. Until recently, this picturesque private island was the Swarovski family’s private retreat. Now it’s a luxury spot for hire, and the vines planted by Gernot Langes-Swarovski around 50 years ago (along with olive groves, orchards and beautiful gardens) are thriving.
Currently Venissa is focused on increasing biodiversity in its vineyards.
In the winery
The fruit is harvested from the islands and shipped by boat then refrigerated truck to the family's winery in Padua.
For Venissa Bianco, the fruit spends 30 days on skins before being pressed and fermented in stainless steel. The wine is then aged for 48 months in concrete.
Venusa undergoes a shorter maceration on its skins (just a week), is fermented in stainless steel and then aged for 24 months in concrete.
Venissa Rosso is fermented in stainless steel and spends 12 months in oak (a combination of new and second-fill French barrique) and several years in bottle prior to release. Originally they used around 50% new French oak, but now it is mainly older oak.
The wines are only released when they are deemed ready to drink.