Domaine Faiveley is one of Burgundy’s most important wine producers. The family-owned estate, now in the hands of the seventh generation, is one of the largest in the region, with significant holdings in both the Côte d’Or and the Côte Chalonnaise. 

Faiveley

Domaine Faiveley is one of Burgundy’s most important Côte d’Or and Côte Chalonnaise producers with top Cru sites Charmes-Chambertin and Lavaut-Saint-Jacques

Domaine Faiveley, Burgundy wines

Domaine Faiveley

Sitting plum in the middle of the Côte d’Or, the hill of Corton is hard to miss. Its wines, especially the whites, however, are all too often overlooked. We sat down with some of the region’s leading producers to explore the pedigree and potential of this site and its powerful, long-lasting wines

Discover the pedigree and potential of the hill of Corton’s whites – the fine Chardonnay from Corton-Charlemagne, Charlemagne and Corton Blanc 

Exploring Corton-Charlemagne, Charlemagne and Corton Blanc 

Corton-Charlemagne: the Grand Cru of the future?  

BURGUNDY 2021: THE GROWING SEASON After three warm years, 2021 marked a return to the sort of weather traditionally associated with Burgundy – and all its challenges.  The winter was warm and wet – “too warm”, Frédéric Weber at Bouchard told us. He remembers finishing pruning in just a t-shirt in March. The vines started growing enthusiastically, with early budbreak, only to be struck by a cold spell at the beginning of April – as frost struck the whole of France. The nights of 6th, 7th and 8th April were devastating, especially 7th. Temperatures dropped to -8˚C in places – temperatures at which candles, helicopters and wine machines could offer little help.  
Images of the Côte de Beaune littered with a milky way of candles filled social media, and vignerons could do little but pray. For the early-budding Chardonnay, 80% losses were normal, with some producers in Chablis losing everything. The humid conditions, with snow falling, made matters worse – unusually this combination means that lower-lying village sites were less impacted than the Grands Crus (higher up-slope, where more snow fell). Indeed, if producers had lit candles (or “bougies”), the warmth melted the snow, which then froze and the buds were burnt by the morning sun – cruel retribution for trying to protect their livelihood. This severe, black frost (“le gel advectif”, as Florence Heresztyn explained) was savage – caused by a mass of cold air from Siberia. Chardonnay (and therefore especially the Côte de Beaune) was impacted more, as were any earlier-ripening Pinot Noir sites, such as Cazetiers or Combe au Moine. Candles can normally only increase the temperature by 2˚C, however some producers noted how a collective effort could make a difference – with a high-density of candles concentrated on an area. Erwan Faiveley had installed electric wires in their Bâtard-Montrachet and Bienvenue-Bâtard-Montrachet, as used previously in Chablis, which saved their crop in these plots, but other parcels were devastated. As Thibault Gagey of Louis Jadot noted, late pruning could help; one of their long-term growers in Bâtard-Montrachet pruned late and got a better crop, but the damage was still significant. David Duband reported how he also had issues in April with caterpillars which munched on the nascent buds. He had to hire five additional workers for a week to battle their hungry attack. The cold weather continued, with May cold and cloudy. Flowering at Bouchard began on 16th June, in wet and mild conditions that were perfect for oidium (powdery mildew) and downy mildew. Because the weather was so wet, mud prevented tractor access and at Bouchard they hired more people to spray by hand – a luxury not everyone could afford. Producers across the region spent their weekends during the summer spraying their vines when they could, with the disease pressure a particular challenge to anyone working organically or biodynamically. Edouard Confuron estimated he had sprayed four or five times more than in a normal year. There was some localised hail, with a storm in June causing damage in the north of Gevrey-Chambertin, especially in Les Champeaux, said Pierre Duroché and Olivier Bernstein.  
With the wet and cooler conditions, deleafing was important to open up the canopy, reducing disease pressure and exposing the fruit to much-needed sunshine. At Olivier Bernstein, Richard Séguin explained how they deleafed the fruiting zone and kept just one or two bunches per vine, removing any green bunches that remained at mid-véraison.  September saved the vintage, with warm, sunny and mostly dry conditions. With the tiny volumes, this was enough to ripen the fruit – Jacques Devauges at Domaine des Lambrays described it as Mother Nature evening the score, making up for what she’d taken in April.  Harvest dates varied quite significantly – starting from 10th September through to early October. Rain fell on 19th and 20th September, and producers were often divided between picking before and after this date. Generally producers started with Pinot Noir, then moved onto the Chardonnay, and dates were around a month later than in 2020. Jean-Marie Fourrier felt it was important to wait for phenolic maturity – which only arrived after the rain, and Erwan Faiveley argued that it was essential to wait for the dilution from the rain to pass before picking. Given the low yields, the harvest was often shorter – simply because there wasn’t much fruit.  Selection was essential – making a small crop even smaller – but there was some beautiful fruit of both colours. Yields varied, with losses between 50 and 80% – and some parcels (especially of Chardonnay) were blended together due to the tiny volumes at play. BURGUNDY 2021: THE WHITE WINES 
There’s no doubt amongst producers – or tasters – that this is an excellent vintage for Chardonnay. Production levels are laughable – with often the lowest yields they’ve ever seen, at a mere 20% of their normal crop – but the quality goes some small way to making up for the loss. The small crop (reduced by the harsh April frost) had a long season to slowly ripen, developing intense levels of concentration, yet – with cooler conditions than 2018, 2019 or 2020 – retaining amazing freshness and acidity. With the wet summer, disease was an issue: Erwan Faiveley described oidium as “exploding” on the Chardonnay (with levels not seen since 2004). Extensive sorting was essential. He also felt it was necessary to fine with bentonite after pressing to ensure the must was clean; similarly at Bouchard, Frédéric Weber didn’t use the very first free-run and inoculated fermentations this year to ensure they ran smoothly. Others, such as Philippe Abadie at Alvina Pernot and Paul Pernot, emphasised how important it was not to over-press. Most wines were chaptalised this year, often just to bring up 0.5%, with the final alcohol levels sitting between 12.5 and 13.5%.  Guillaume Boillot at Henri Boillot – who has produced a stunning range of wines – describes the whites as “salin”, having “belle matière”. Vibrant and pure, these are tightly wound with cool, white-fleshed fruit character, sometimes with tropical richness, often a mineral, saline thread and piercing acidity.  Due to the tiny volumes produced, oak usage varies this year. Boillot used none, but others have slightly more in the blend – feeling it didn’t need the freshness added by components aged in stainless steel. For Jadot, it was the first year that they used exclusively foudres, the larger barrels reducing the flavour impact of oak on the wine. Erwan Faiveley believes that tasting the whites, you can feel “the struggle in them”, that the vines suffered. Tasting through the exceptional Grands Crus he’s produced, however, it’s hard to see this – and perhaps he’s biased by the challenges of working the vines and crafting the wines in 2021. Comparisons are hard for such a unique year, but 2014 and 2017 were common themes, largely due to the high acidity, quality and ageing potential. Philippe Abadie and Alvina Pernot described it as “classic bourguignon”, while Thibault Gagey at Louis Jadot compared the year to 2011 or 2013, although feels the wines are better than those of the latter vintage. Faiveley points to 2007 – a vintage that has never shut down or, for him, disappointed; for Boillot they’re closest to 2016, but more precise. At Bouchard, Weber is so excited by their potential that he plans to keep them in barrel longer – possibly bottling in July 2023. These are really exciting wines – with a vibrancy and energy that is compelling. The cool and mineral classicism here, with great fruit concentration and balance, should age beautifully. 
Read our full report on Chablis 2021

 BURGUNDY 2021: THE RED WINES 
While there is a clear consensus on the 2021 whites, the reds are more varied in the vintage – but much better than we initially thought. The wines have clearly benefited from additional time in barrel, and most addresses have crafted a flight of elegant, pale-coloured and light-bodied Pinot Noirs. Although there are a few, rare examples of dilute or overly lean wines, this is in the main a return to “old school” Burgundy, with wines of perfume rather than power. The volumes are more generous than for the Chardonnay, but still measly, mostly sitting between 30 and 50% of a normal year’s yield. 
Frédéric Weber at Bouchard felt there were two styles of Pinot Noir in 2021: those from plots not damaged by frost, with normal yields but grapes with thin, fragile skins, prone to grey rot. The fruit from frost-hit sites, meanwhile, came with lower yields, thicker skins and less disease – for the latter he preferred to harvest later, with their higher tannin levels.  
Jean-Marie Fourrier noted that the picking date for Pinot Noir was key, worrying that anyone harvesting before the rain on 19th/20th was playing a risky game when it came to phenolic maturity and might have unripe tannins and vegetal notes.  
In general, Florence Heresztyn of Heresztyn-Mazzini felt it was a vintage, like 2012 or 2013, where producers needed to be attentive and precise at every stage – from the vineyard to winery. Sorting was essential and almost every producer chaptalised – largely used to prolong the alcohol fermentation rather than with the sole purpose of increasing the alcohol level. 

 Beyond this, tactics in the winery were varied – with vignerons often taking opposite approaches. Some producers, such as Bouchard, opted for more whole-bunch fermentation. Winemaker Frédéric Weber explained that the stems were so beautiful that he was happy to include 30-50% on average; the potassium also helped reduce the acidity of the wines, giving – he felt – a better expression of the year. 
The opposite was true of many, including Benoît Stehly at Georges Lignier and Hugues Pavelot. At Olivier Bernstein, the team used 30-40%, much less than in a warmer vintage, as they didn’t feel additional freshness was required, nor were the stems sufficiently lignified; similarly Heresztyn-Mazzini used 30-60% rather than 50-100% to avoid any greenness. While Jean-Marie Fourrier de-stems everything, in 2019 and 2020 he added the stems back into ferments for freshness, but didn’t feel it was necessary in 2021. 
When it came to extraction, the approach was similarly broad. Some felt it was a year to be more delicate, others thought it was a year that required more work to extract the colour and tannin that was in the grapes.  
Maxime Cheurlin at Domaine Georges Noëllat used a warmer – and therefore shorter – fermentation (sustaining 33-34˚C, versus 31˚C normally) to build the mid-palate of the wines. Charles van Canneyt had to buy smaller tanks for the miniscule yields, but the tiny tanks therefore fermented more quickly and he was careful to keep maceration short to avoid risking over-extraction. Similarly, Olivier Bernstein was keen to keep the fermentation short, with a five-day cold soak to extract colour and aromatics, then just 13 additional days on skins before the must was pressed – the fermentation finishing off the skins. 
By contrast, Fourrier opted for more extraction to get everything possible from the fruit. Guillaume Boillot echoed this view, with an additional week of skin contact. He used just pumping over rather than punching down to focus on fruit and aromatics rather than tannin; but at Faiveley, Erwan used more punching down than pumping over. 
Some producers highlighted that the grapes had high levels of malic acid (which has been notably low in recent, solar vintages), meaning that malolactic fermentation had a significant impact on the wines. Both Benoît Stehly and Charles van Canneyt noted how they were verging on severe at first, but after malolactic were open and fruity – totally changing in style. On paper, the pH is quite high for some wines (up to 3.7) – yet there is plenty of freshness, the lighter body and lower alcohol (mostly 13-13.5%) perhaps balancing it out.  
For élevage, some winemakers feel the wines need longer or shorter élevage, or different types of oak, with more or less new or different toasting. Nicolas Potel at Domaine and Maison Roche de Bellene feels that the crunchy character of the Pinot Noir will only be enhanced by a longer maturation in barrel (planning for 24 months versus the normal 12). Boillot opted for no new oak (as for his whites), feeling it would mark the fruit too much; while Maxime Cheurlin used less new oak but higher toast levels to add further complexity – and plans to bottle the wines earlier.  For Domaine Joblot, they felt that more new oak helped round out the lighter wines, using 50% new. At Domaine des Lambrays, Jacques Devauges favoured a slow, gentle toast – a "chauffe blonde" that gives the scent of freshly baked bread. Indeed, Devauges feels the wines have been improving significantly in barrel, offering more concentration and aromatics with each month that passes – something that reminds him of the 2010 vintage. 




Frédéric Weber at Bouchard describes 2021 as “charming”, comparing the wines to those of 2017, with good terroir definition and balance at 13-13.5% – more in line with what used to be “normal” for the region.  Thibault Gagey at Jadot pointed to 2004, 2013 or 2017 as possible similar vintages, but finds it hard to compare – it’s old school but approachable. Marion Raphet added 2014 into the mix, and although the wines are incredibly open now, wonders if they might shut down in bottle. For her, however, it is a year where, “On retrouve la typicité” (they rediscovered Burgundy’s typicity). The team at Tortochot pointed to 2011 or 2001, while Erwan Faiveley looked to 2007 and Florence Heresztyn noted the growing season was reminiscent of 2016.  
Maxime Chuerlin looks further back, feeling it has a similar equilibrium, colour and density to the outstanding 1991 vintage – in no doubt that the balance of the wines will allow them to age. While it’s easy to assume that these paler Burgundies might not be the longest-lived, almost every producer anticipates that 2021 will surprise everyone with its ageability – especially for the top wines. 
Almost every single grower we spoke to used a different approach for the 2021 vintage – but almost all have succeeded, producing vibrant, open and pretty Pinot Noir. It is a year in which careful vignerons could craft exceptional wines that were both light-bodied, yet persistent – with a purity and intensity that is surprising, along with captivating aromatics. As Nicole Lamarche said, “You can have both lightness and concentration.” It is, overall, a year that has surpassed expectations – one that was transformed by producers’ dedication, work in the vineyard, and modern technology and know-how in the winery.
 BURGUNDY 2021 IN BRIEF An extremely challenging growing season, with April frost and high disease pressure over the summer Yields were drastically reduced by between 50 and 80%  The whites are superb – concentrated, high-acid with minerality and cooler fruit tones The reds are a little more varied, but the best are elegant, charming, pale and light-bodied – yet with impressive intensity and freshness A handful of wines are a little dilute or lean, but all the best vignerons crafted superb wines Alcohol levels are more traditional for the region, mostly between 12 and 13%, with little above 13.5% The best wines of both colours will age well, but the reds in particular will be approachable in their youth Producers used different approaches to handle the year’s challenges The most common vintage comparisons are to 2014 and 2017, but include a wide range of other years 

Over two separate trips, our team delved into the 2021 vintage – visiting, tasting with and talking to a wide range of producers up and down the Côte d’Or. The vintage was complicated – but Burgundy’s vignerons have crafted some exceptional wines. We dig into everything you need to know

Everything you need to know about Burgundy 2021: our report on the growing season, how the region’s best winemakers handled it and what the wines are like

Burgundy 2021 full vintage report

Burgundy 2021: a wine-grower’s vintage

The 2023 vintage was rare for Burgundy – offering both quantity and quality. But it isn’t quite that simple, with an atypical growing season, almost too much fruit, and a less homogenous crop. We report on the vintage and its wines – the best of which are remarkable

The 2023 vintage was rare for Burgundy – offering both quantity and quality. We report on the growing season and the wines it produced

Burgundy 2023 vintage overview

Burgundy 2023: vintage overview

2019 Meursault, Premier Cru, Gouttes d’Or, Louis Jadot Gouttes d’Or is one of the cooler Premier Cru sites in Meursault and therefore excels in warmer vintages. It was certainly one of our picks from Louis Jadot in 2019. It has a beautifully rich golden colour and a lovely expressive florality on the nose. It is pure opulence on the palate, full-bodied, exhibiting huge, spherical breadth which fills the palate. Honeyed melon, yellow plum and white peach fruit are in abundance but the wine tightens up nicely on the finish. This is a wonderfully intense and serious Chardonnay. 2019 St Aubin, Premier Cru, La Chatenière, Joseph Colin The talented Joseph Colin (brother of Pierre-Yves Colin Morey) continues to impress with his superb range of whites. This dry, stony plot gets an hour less sun, shielded from the rising sun by the slopes of En Remilly/Dents de Chien – an hour that makes a huge difference in the resulting wine, which was a stand-out from the range. On the nose, it’s pretty, floral, dainty and mineral, while the palate is soft and supple, with the most  extraordinary silken texture. By contrast, the flavour profile is tightly wound, with a mineral line, concentrated citrus and subtle white blossom. Ethereal yet powerful, it will be a joy to watch this evolve. 2019 Puligny-Montrachet, Premier Cru, Clos de la Mouchère, Domaine Henri Boillot Guillaume Boillot is particularly pleased with the 2019s – with their perfect balance and, for the whites, a real floral character that runs through the range. The four-hectare monopole vineyard Clos de la Mouchère is always a favourite – this sub-section of Perrières producing a particularly honeyed expression of the site. There’s a real roundness to the wine in 2019; it’s soft, intense and long. Vibrant citrus fruit and minerality drives the wine, but there’s a suppleness that surrounds a core of real energy. With air, notes of white nectarine, acacia honey and freshly cut hay emerge – adding richness and weight. Particularly concentrated and fine. 2019 Vosne-Romanée, Premier Cru, Les Suchots, Domaine Lamarche Nicole Lamarche has no doubt made some of the most ethereal reds in the vintage. Picking at least a week earlier than most of her neighbours, all her wines sit comfortably below 13.6% alcohol. Her winemaking is reliant on her continual tasting of fruit, must and wine to dictate her vinification processes. Every cuvée is approached differently. Despite this bespoke approach, the consistency across the board is commendable. It makes it difficult to pick a favourite in the range but her Suchots is incredibly serious – competing with wines 10 times its value. It is an endorphin-releasing Pinot Noir in which the purity of fruit and exceptional balance leaves you forgetting about flavour and thinking about feeling. It reminds you how good red Burgundy can be with fantastic terroir and an adept hand. 2019 Clos de la Roche, Grand Cru, Domaine Georges Lignier Benoît Stelhy believes 2019 is “amazing”, the vintage of his career – or at least he did until 2020 arrived. No less, the 2019s here are superb, although there’s sadly not a lot of them – with yields down by up to 50%. His Clos de la Roche really shone at our tasting. Delicate florals combine with crunchy red fruit to make a truly delicious wine. It’s intense, with the tannins building subtly in the mouth – they’re round and soft, yet coat the cheeks and gums. The sweetness of the new oak (40%) coats the dark fruit, while the palate has a savoury freshness thanks to the whole-bunch (30%). It finishes long, with a chalky line and redcurrant bite. 2019 Beaune-Grèves, Premier Cru, Le Vigne de l’Enfant Jésus, Bouchard Père & Fils Frédéric Weber at Bouchard thinks 2019 is “a huge vintage for the future” – and the domaine’s iconic Vigne de l’Enfant Jésus is case in point. This section of Les Grèves Premier Cru is the “filet mignon” of the vineyard – the most desirable section, right in the middle of the slope, with well-drained gravelly soil which tends to ripen earlier. The resulting wine has a distinct spicy, floral nose – think black pepper, cloves and violets, with a toasty edge. There’s real richness and weight, with a luxurious creaminess to the wine on the palate, which is laden with muddled black berry fruit, cut by chalky minerality and juicy raspberries. Vibrant, balanced and concentrated with seamless tannins, this is superb. 2019 Chambertin Clos-de-Bèze, Grand Cru, Olivier Bernstein The wines of Olivier Bernstein are a masterclass in dynamism. The wines feel so alive when you taste them. It’s hard not admire Olivier Bernstein’s honesty when he says how each of his cuvées take it in turns to show up: one week the Clos de la Roche might be flexing its muscles, another week it is the Mazis-Chambertin. The Clos de al Roche was one of the highlights of a spectacular set of Grands Crus in 2018, a vintage Bernstein believes to be his best, but another favourite was the Chambertin Clos-de-Bèze which effortlessly ticks all the boxes for what you want in a Grand Cru. The tannin structure is built like a cathedral, so detailed and compact, while at the same time fleshing out on the back-palate and providing so much breadth. The berry fruit remains precise and fresh, and distinctly red-fruited, while the finish is sapid and saline. It is truly a magical wine. 2019 Vosne-Romanée, Premier Cru, Les Malconsorts, Domaine du Clos Frantin, Albert Bichot The Albert Bichot wines continue to improve under Alain Serveau’s stewardship. They are the largest owners of Malconsorts, with 1.76 hectares of this excellent Premier Cru. In 2019, there’s something almost imperial about the wine – both sophisticated and opulent. The nose fills with a richness of red cherries, complemented by a touch of plum. The palate is intense and tight, the tannins fine and supple. Laden with ripe, bright red berry fruit and juicy acidity, it’s a gorgeous wine in 2019. 2019 Corton, Clos des Cortons Faiveley, Grand Cru, Domaine Faiveley Faiveley today is the sixth-largest domaine in Burgundy and, despite its expanding size, the wines are only getting better – most notable with a change in winemaking from 2006, shifting to a much lighter touch during extraction. The renovation of their magnificent winemaking facilities in Nuits-Saint-Georges has also improved their ability to find detail and distinct personality in each of their wines. With huge barrel cellars, they are also able to have extended élevage to 16 to 18 months, creating wines with great volume and integration. The true star of their extensive collection of vineyards in the Côte d’Or must be the monopole Clos des Cortons Faiveley Grand Cru. The detail on the nose is extraordinary – dried aromatic tea interspersed with pristine red berry fruit, blood orange and a gorgeous vinosity. The spectrum of flavour is staggering, whie remaining succulent and generous in both breadth and concentration. It’s another remarkable wine in a fantastic vintage for the estate – albeit with 30% less made this year. 2019 Clos des Lambrays, Grand Cru, Domaine des Lambrays Domaine des Lambrays’s flagship site is almost but not quite a monopole, with an ouvrée – less than 0.2 of the total 8.84 hectares – at the bottom of the clos belonging to Taupenot-Merme. Yields here were down to a measly 15hl/ha in 2019 – although winemaker Jacques Devauges assigns this partly to their ongoing conversion to organics, but the quality is clearly there. Most of the vines (71%) date from between 1898 and 1935, while the lowest section of the vineyard is 40 years old, and 3% of the vines are spritely 20-somethings. It was fascinating tasting the three sections of this large Grand Cru separately and then as a blend, seeing how each one contributes its own character.  There’s the exoticism of the side near Clos de Tart; the more angular, structured and firmer top section; and the intense, vibrant fruit of the lowest part of the vineyard. Combined, the wine has remarkable concentration – much more than a sum of its parts, building gradually on the palate with layer upon layer of bold, blueberry fruit and sweet-savoury spice, yet plenty of the vintage’s moreish acidity. As Jacques said rather modestly, “You want to drink it.” We might be inclined to go a little further, given the quality and ageing potential on show here – but it’s hard to resist now. Explore all current Burgundy listings 

There was no shortage of brilliant Burgundy wine in 2019 – and narrowing down a list of favourites from the many superb wines we tasted wasn’t easy. These 10, however, stood out in the year's enviable line-up

There was no shortage of brilliant Burgundy wine in 2019. These 10 wines stood out in the year's enviable line-up

Our favourite 2019 Burgundy wines

Burgundy 2019: our favourites

After a stint in the cellars of the Côte d’Or, talking and tasting about the 2022 vintage, Sophie Thorpe reports on the year – one that seems to be a blessing, both for producers and wine drinkers

After a stint in the cellars of the Côte d’Or, talking and tasting about Burgundy’s 2022 vintage, we report on the year and its wines

Burgundy 2022 vintage overview

Burgundy 2022: vintage overview

2021 RICHEBOURG, GRAND CRU, DOMAINE HUDELOT-NOËLLAT From a mere 0.28 hectares, this is a seductive and regal Grand Cru in 2021. The aristocracy of this site shines through, with haunting perfume and sumptuous depths to the sweet fruit. It’s elegant yet rich, with nuanced, smoky tones and outstandingly fine tannins that add texture to the long and plush palate of this very fine Pinot Noir. A remarkable wine. 2021 LATRICIÈRES-CHAMBERTIN, GRAND CRU, DOMAINE DAVID DUBAND Duband’s Latricières comes from a 0.3-hectare plot of 60-year-old vines in the Grand Cru, sandwiched between plots that belong to Leroy and Chantal Rémy. In 2021 it’s spicy and perfumed – the wine leaping out of the glass. Florals, pepper and incense mingle with bright yet delicate crushed raspberry fruit. Silken and fine-boned, this is beautifully elegant, with a long mineral finish. 2021 CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY, PREMIER CRU, LES CHARMES, REMOISSENET PÈRE & FILS This pretty Chambolle combines predictable florals and sweet strawberry with an almost blackcurrant note. The palate is lush and long, with chalky structure and crushed-raspberry fruit. It’s a wine, however, that is all about its finesse – effortless and fine-boned Pinot Noir. 2021 BEAUNE, PREMIER CRU, LES TUVILAINS, DOMAINE GEORGES NOËLLAT Maxime Cheurlin’s range is charming in 2021 – and this was a particular highlight. The nose is bright, with raspberry lift and brightness – but it’s concentrated and pure. A wave of soft, crushed wild strawberry washes over the palate – bright and pure, yet with a darker edge to it. The tannins are powdered and fine, adding the slightest grip to the palate. The finish is long and savoury. 2021 MOREY-SAINT-DENIS, PREMIER CRU, LES SORBÉS, CHARLES VAN CANNEYT Charles van Canneyt’s line-up this year is superb. This Morey-Saint-Denis Premier Cru with free-draining soils produced a silken wine. The fruit here is dark yet bright, with a beautiful density to the palate – a vivid concentration and mouth-watering freshness, building to a crunchy, red-fruited finish. 
2021 CLOS DE LA ROCHE, GRAND CRU, OLIVIER BERNSTEIN From vines that average 50 years in age, this offers incredible density – especially in 2021. The nose is pure dark cherry, not revealing much at this nascent stage. Like a gawky teenager, it’s waiting to reveal its potential, but the palate offers glimpses of what lies ahead – with smoky, savoury tones, fine – almost Italianate – dusty, tannins and bright juicy red fruit, building towards an elegant, nuanced finish. Impressive. 
 

2021 CLOS DES LAMBRAYS, GRAND CRU, DOMAINE DES LAMBRAYS Domaine des Lambrays’s flagship site is almost but not quite a monopole, with an ouvrée – less than 0.2 of the total 8.84 hectares – at the bottom of the clos belonging to Taupenot-Merme. Yields here were slashed in half in 2021, not helped by now farming biodynamically. Most of the vines (71%) date from between 1898 and 1935, while the lowest section of the vineyard is 40 years old, and 3% of the vines are spritely 20-somethings that are currently de-classified. It is fascinating tasting three sections of this large Grand Cru separately and then all the parcels as a blend, seeing how each one contributes its own character. We started with the firm, linear Plante Bas, then the more expressive, prettier Cerisiers on the Clos de Tart side, and the intense, powerful 50 Ouvrées. Combined, the result is intense, silken and long. It’s round but focused, with incredible energy and the finest texture. Gorgeous floral perfume adds a lightness to the fruit – an explosion of red cherry that fills the palate, making it seem approachable even now. A fresh, herbal twist makes the finish utterly moreish. 2021 PULIGNY-MONTRACHET, PREMIER CRU, CLOS DE LA MOUCHÈRE, DOMAINE HENRI BOILLOT Boillot’s four-hectare monopole Clos de la Mouchère is always a favourite – the shame in 2021 is that he made less than 20% of the normal production of this flagship wine. This sub-section of Perrières produces a particularly honeyed expression of the site. It’s a real step up and contrast to the already impressive village Puligny, with intense and powerful fruit expression. Cooked apricot, white peach and Amalfi lemon peel leap out of the glass, yet on the palate it’s incredibly tightly wound – with a concentrated core that will need time to reveal itself fully. The acidity here is exhilarating, driving through the fruit to a saline finish lifted by a sherbet freshness.  2021 BIENVENUES BÂTARD-MONTRACHET, GRAND CRU, ALVINA PERNOT In 2021, this is laden with generous, almost heady fruit – peach and pineapple making for a voluptuous wine that envelops you. It’s creamy and layered on the palate with incredible texture that builds with sweet spice adding complexity. It’s concentrated, full and rich with real Grand Cru concentration. Only two barrels made.  2021 CORTON CHARLEMAGNE, GRAND CRU, DOMAINE FAIVELEY The Corton Charlemagne was the last wine of our tasting at Faiveley this year – and what a way to finish. They managed to harvest just 12hl/ha from this site, one that normally is never hit by frost, yet was in 2021. The resulting wine is beautifully concentrated, with a chalky, bright citrus nose. It’s open and sunny, yet also taut – with a line of vibrant, limey acidity that runs through the entire length of the wine. The citrus fruit is complemented by light, honeyed notes and white blossom. 
Browse all available Burgundy or read more about the vintage 

The 2021 vintage in the Côte d’Or produced some wonderful wines – perfumed Pinot Noir and taut Chardonnay, wines that will appeal to classic Burgundy-lovers. Of all the wines we’ve tasted so far, these are our 10 favourites 

Discover our top 10 wines tasted from the Burgundy 2021 vintage so far – from up and down the Cote d’Or

Our favourite wines from Burgundy 2021

Burgundy 2021: our favourites

Our team spent several weeks exploring the 2023 vintage in Burgundy – visiting, tasting and talking to a range of producers up and down the Côte d’Or. Here, we offer a run-down of the year by producer, from north to south, reporting on how each fared and our pick of their range this year

A run-down of the Burgundy 2023 vintage wines en primeur by producer: from Fourrier to Lafon via Bernstein, Lamarche, Lambrays, Duroche and Hudelot-Noellat 

Burgundy 2023 vintage by producer 

Burgundy 2023: by producer

2022 Vosne-Romanée, Premier Cru, Les Beaumonts, Domaine Hudelot-Noëllat This Premier Cru was an absolute standout of our tasting at Domaine Hudelot-Noëllat this year. The pretty nose combines star anise spice, floral lift and crushed rock. Powerfully mineral with such a suave, elegant palate, there is amazing delicacy to the almost smoky, savoury tannin structure, framing the pure, bright fruit. Pinpoint and precise, yet with a mouth-watering lushness, this is a very special wine in 2022. 2022 Vosne-Romanée, Premier Cru, Les Suchots, Nicole Lamarche Nicole Lamarche has 0.22 hectares at the southern end of this Premier Cru, close to Romanée Saint-Vivant, with vines that average 45 to 50 years in age. It is, as Nicole herself described it, “100% seduction”. The nose is sensuous, with sweet, plump berries, baking spice and iris florals, luring you in. On the palate, the delicacy and finesse is astounding. The bright acidity drives the wine, giving tension, yet there’s a luxurious nature the fruit that rolls around the mouth, a touch more generous than her other Vosne Premier Cru Les Chaumes. The tannins are rich, almost savoury, with a pure-rock character. Remarkable. 2022 Gevrey-Chambertin, Premier Cru, Lavaut Saint-Jacques, Domaine Duroché Duroché has 1.2 hectares of this cool, higher-altitude Premier Cru, with vines planted between 1923 and 1980, which is always the last to be picked. The 2022 is an absolute highlight of our tasting at this domaine, the cool site thriving in the warmth of the vintage. There’s instant gratification with an expressive nose layered with red and blue berry fruit and pepper spice. On the palate, it expands, bursting with juicy blueberries, smoky tones and black liquorice. It’s richly fruited, savoury and fresh, with a mineral line and chalky tannins that frame the mouth-watering fruit. Delicious. There’s around 15% whole-bunch this year. 2022 Chambertin, Grand Cru, Jean-Marie Fourrier As with Fourrier’s Latricières-Chambertin, this old-vine plot (a stately 70 years) is up against the Route des Grands Crus. The nose is instantly intoxicating with a violet perfume and depth of dark fruit that soars from the glass. The palate is concentrated, laden with sweet fruit, yet driven with remarkable finesse and freshness. Persistent and pure, with a weightless quality, this is another great wine from Jean-Marie.
 2022 Bâtard-Montrachet, Grand Cru, Domaine Faiveley Faiveley has a plot of 0.35 hectares here. The 2022 is an exceptional wine – with a nose that is waxy, chalky and creamy – but beneath these savoury and mineral aromas there is a wine of such density and fullness. There is layer upon layer of flavour here, working through from mineral tones, citrus and yellow-fleshed peach, grilled almonds, honeysuckle and creamy intensity. It flirts with fatness, the rich fruit rolling around the mouth luxuriously, yet there’s a pithy bite that brings it back from the edge – giving tension as the acidity drives on to a bright, sherbet-edged finish. 2022 Gevrey-Chambertin, Premier Cru, Les Goulots, Domaine Heresztyn-Mazzini This cool vineyard is at the top of the village, just north of Combe aux Moines and sitting above Champeaux. In 2022, it’s one of the most charming wines in Heresztyn-Mazzini’s line-up. They used 50% whole-bunch this year to bring more delicacy. It opens with sweet, ripe red fruit on the nose, but the palate is much more serious. The fruit is elegant and suave, with a brightness and transparency. The crushed raspberry and tart cherry is complemented by white-pepper spice and the fine-grained grip of chalky tannins. This site’s cooler position clearly thrived in 2022 – superb. 2022 Chambolle-Musigny, Premier Cru, Les Feusselottes, Maxime Cheurlin Noëllat This négoce bottling from Maxime Cheurlin (of Domaine Georges Noëllat) shone at our tasting – one of the finest Chambolles we tasted anywhere, in fact. The nose offers classic Chambolle perfume – a scented bouquet and bright, dainty, detailed berry fruit. On the palate, it manages to be both creamy and crunchy, with a sappy, mouth-watering freshness and intensely mineral backbone that drives on to the long, saline finish. Five barrels were produced. 2022 Marsannay, Au Champ Salomon, Domaine Charles Audoin Cyril Audoin and his father constantly debate which of Champ Salomon and Favières is the better plot in Marsannay. They’re both extremely impressive in 2022, although the Champ Salomon is offering more at this youthful stage. The nose is creamy, scented and sweet, enticing with plump strawberry and raspberry, then there’s a rush of juicy bright fruit that fills the palate – powerful, expansive, dark yet bright and crunchy berry fruit. There’s a pleasingly bitter, hickory-smoke edge, along with lifted peony and violet tones. Lush, juicy and hard to resist. 2022 Le Montrachet, Grand Cru, Remoissenet Père & Fils Remoissenet’s Montrachet is always a favourite of ours and it’s no different in 2022. The nose offers grilled almonds, acacia honey and gunflint – just hinting at what is to come. The palate is remarkably concentrated, layered with swathes of peachy fruit and lemon pith, with a zesty, flinty power. It’s immensely ripe and full, but still beautifully elegant, with freshness that balances the wine’s concentration. A wine that deserves time and will only get better in bottle. It’s all in one-year-old oak this year. 2022 Griotte Chambertin, Grand Cru, Charles van Canneyt From the smallest of the Chambertin Grands Crus, this is the pièce de resistance of Charles van Canneyt’s line-up in 2022. From a plot of vines that are over 80 years old, this is graceful, ethereal, sensual and persistent. It is absolutely complete, with notes of spice, bright red fruit, a touch of sweetness and something minty. There’s no doubt that this is a big wine – as a Grand Cru should be – but it’s medium-bodied, round and fresh with fine-grained tannins, and a long, suave finish full of raspberry and strawberry fruit. This is still young but what a wine – give it a decade before you crack a bottle, if you can resist. Four barrels were produced. 2022 Chablis, Grand Cru, Moutonne, Domaine Long-Depaquit, Albert Bichot In 2022, Domaine Long-Depaquit’s monopole Grand Cru captures the balance of the vintage. It is the most mineral-driven cuvée in the range, with an elegant nose than ranges from lemon zest to white blossom, over a layer of wet crushed rock. On the palate, the wine reveals superb concentration, and is much broader and richer structure than the nose suggests. A backbone of acidity drives towards a beautiful finish full of tension, with hints of salinity that makes you salivate. It will need a few years before it shows its potential. Unfortunately, a large part of the vineyard (the lowest part, neighbouring Fèvre) is being replanted and volumes this year are therefore smaller than we’d have liked. It is nonetheless a fantastic showing – and is undoubtedly our favourite Grand Cru from Long Depaquit in 2022. Drink 2028-2040. 2022 Puligny-Montrachet, La Rue aux Vaches, Alvina Pernot From a village parcel just below Les Pucelles and Clos des Meix, this is always so different to Clos des Noyers Brets – with fleshier fruit. It’s playful on the nose, with different facets and fruits emerging with air. It’s broader on the palate, revealing its proximity to Premier Cru territory. A fantastic showing, it’s the best edition of this wine to date. With only a barrel produced, it’s bottled exclusively in magnum.

The 2022 vintage in the Côte d’Or produced some wonderful wines – delicate, pretty and transparent Pinot Noir and concentrated, vibrant Chardonnay that will appeal to classic Burgundy-lovers. Of all the wines we’ve tasted so far, these are our favourites

Discover our top wines tasted from the Burgundy 2022 vintage so far – from up and down the Cote d’Or

Our favourite wines from Burgundy 2022

Burgundy 2022: our favourites

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