2017 Domaine de Marcoux Châteauneuf-du-Pape
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Tasting notes
Shimmering ruby-red. A highly expressive bouquet evokes candied red and dark berries, cola, smoky minerals and licorice, and a sexy floral note builds as the wine opens up. Sappy, penetrating and pure, offering palate-staining black raspberry, cherry pie, blood orange and lavender pastille flavors that put on weight and turn spicier with air. Delivers a compelling blend of richness and delicacy and finishes spicy, focused and very long, leaving floral and red fruit preserve notes behind. Once again, this bottling is, perhaps, the top "basic" Châteauneuf of the year.
Critic scores
Richard Hemming MW, jancisrobinson.com
Jeb Dunnuck
More reviews and scores
The 2017 Châteauneuf Du Pape (90% Grenache and the rest Syrah and Mourvèdre) is a beauty that has ample richness and depth yet shows the elegant style of the estate. Kirsch, blackberries, ground herbs, garrigue, and licorice notes all emerge from this medium to full-bodied, silky red. It has plenty of upfront fruit, but it has the density and tannic grip of the vintage and is going to benefit from 4-5 years of bottle age to hit prime time. One of the benchmark estates in all of France is undeniably Domaine du Marcoux, which is run today by the talented Sophie Armenier, with more and more help from her son, Vincent. Sophie’s sister, Catherine, has recently retired and Vincent has taken over the farming the estate’s 18 hectares in Châteauneuf du Pape, 8 hectares in Lirac, and just over 2 hectares of Côtes du Rhône. The estate is located just outside the northern edge of the appellation, yet they own vines primarily in the south (Grandes Serres, Les Plagnes, and les Galimardes), northwest (Beaurenard, Les Pradel, Maucoil and l’Arnesque) and in the center of the appellation (Les Esqueirons, Les Bosquets and Charbonnière). They make three Châteauneuf du Papes, one white and two reds. The white is always a classic, high quality effort worth checking out and is a mix of Roussanne and Bourboulenc brought up in tank and barrels. For the reds, the classic Châteauneuf du Pape is destemmed and is always roughly 75-80% Grenache with the balance Mourvèdre, Cinsault and Syrah, aged primarily in concrete tanks. They make tiny amount of their Vieilles Vignes cuvée and it’s basically 100% Grenache that’s completely destemmed and comes from three terroirs: Charbonnière, Esqueirons and Galimardes. Their Vieilles Vignes cuvée is one of the world’s most profound wines, and as I’ve said before, there are few I’d rather have in my cellar or on the table.
Dark, rich and intense, the 2017 Chateauneuf du Pape nicely reflects the heat and dryness of the growing season. It's full-bodied and lush, with chocolaty overtones to the black cherry and licorice flavors. I'd give it until 2020, then drink it over the next 7-8 years.
Tasted blind. Black-fruit cordial on the nose and palate with grippy, fibrous tannins and bitter herby notes on the finish. Full and balanced in structure, although the tannins deserve time. (RH)