2001 Giorgio Pelissero Barbaresco Vanotu

The estate’s top bottling, the 2001 Barbaresco Vanotu (made from parcels in Neive and Treiso) is a superb wine with penetrating aromas of alcohol and toasted oak. It offers outstanding balance in its round, lush personality, with a lingering note of balsamic sweetness on the exquisite finish. It is made from parcels in Neive and Treiso. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2015. Importer: Vinifera Imports, Ronkonkoma, NY; tel. (631) 467-5907

(this spends 22 months in all new barriques, whereas the Tulin is aged in mostly larger foudres Full medium red. Mellow aromas of redcurrant, truffle, earth, mocha, cola and woodsmoke, with captivating suggestions of iron, minerals, sage and rosemary. Lush on entry, then tighter and more bound-up in the mid-palate than the Tulin, with more obvious inner-mouth energy. Juicy, slightly minty wine, finishing with firm but fine tannins that will need six to eight years of patience. A distinctly modern-style wine from chalk-rich soil. This could hardly be more different from the Tulin today.

Bright red-ruby. Sappy, high-pitched nose combines currant, roast coffee, dried flowers and a chalky element. Dense and oaky, with bright acids and substantial, granular tannins leaving it a bit tough today. Showing its oak now ("in a maximum wood stage," Pelissero admits), and hard to judge. The wood element cuts off the wine's fruit. Also recommended: 2001 Nebbiolo Langhe.