2010 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Vergers 0,75l Michel Niellon

The 2010 Chassagne-Montrachet Les Vergers impresses for its pointed, vibrant minerality and overall focus. Crushed rocks, flowers, chamomile and white stone fruits are nicely layered. In 2010, the Vergers is classy and polished, yet also a bit subdued in its personality. Anticipated maturity: 2012+. Michel Niellon told me the key to the vintage was choosing the right picking date, especially after a thunderstorm in Santenay on September 12 forced many growers to pick a few days earlier than they had originally expected. Yields are down 15-30%, depending on the appellation, mostly because of the irregular flowering. The domaine’s parcels had a high percentage of coulure (shatter) and millerandage (shot berries). According to Niellon, it is the uneven size of the berries that marks the vintage, as the smaller berries gave concentration, while the larger berries contributed acidity. As was the case throughout the region, the malos were quite slow to develop, and a few of these wines were bottled a little later than usual, something that is now possible because of Niellon’s huge warehouse facility in an industrial section of Chassagne a few kilometers from the old, historic part of the village. The 2010s were aged in barrel until just before the 2011 harvest, at which time Niellon bottled the Chassagne-Montrachet, Champ Gains, Vergers and Chaumees. The Clos St. Jean, Maltroie, Chevalier and Batard (which I did not taste) were bottled in October and November 2011. Importer: Diageo Chateau and Estate Wines Company, New York, NY; tel. (707) 299-2600

(just finished its malo): Bright yellow. Pure but reticent nose hints at flowers and clove. Penetrating and firm-edged, showing bright acidity and a firm spine of minerality. Distinctly imploded on the palate, with an almost tannic quality to the flavors of ginger, pear skin and menthol. Will these premier crus gain in pliancy from a racking?