1990 Domaine Michel Lafarge Volnay Clos des Chenes 1er Cru
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Tasting notes
Perhaps the star wine of the lunch, brought by the encouragingly spry Michel Lafarge, who sat at Becky's right hand. Luminous garnet. Sumptuously heady nose. I wrote 'chestnuts' before my brain had engaged and made the connection with the name of the wine. Firm finish still although the tannins are not nearly as dry as in some 1990s. Very rich and lively. A wonderful partner for the beef tartare. My handwritten notes end: 'the third bottle was especially haunting'. Quite. (JR)
Critic scores
Jancis Robinson MW
Neal Martin, Wine Advocate
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Tasted at the Clos des Chênes vertical in London, the 1990 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Chênes has darker fruit than the 1991, noticeable undergrowth aromas that infuse those blackberries and bilberries, turning more towards Japanese green tea scents with aeration. Mercurial and captivating! The palate is fleshy and ripe as you would expect with respect to such a warm growing season, yet it maintains very fine balance, refined and sappy with a saline, foursquare finish that suggests this has reached its peak and you should uncork any bottles sooner, rather than later. Very fine indeed. Tasted November 2015.