2015 Donelan Syrah Obsidian Vineyard

The 2015 Syrah Obsidian Vineyard is another structured, tannic, backward 2015 from this estate. Smoked earth, Graves-like cold fireplace, lots of meatiness and ample dark fruit all emerge from this medium to full-bodied effort that has serious tannin, integrated acidity, and a great finish. The cellar is going to be your friend. This is another brilliant lineup of wines from the Donelan Family, with the wines made by Joe Nielson. While their estate Obsidian Vineyard was lost in the fires last year, they’re already in the process of planning and replanting the site, and I was thrilled to taste through a small retrospective from what’s unquestionably one of the great terroirs in California. Looking at the 2015s, which are by and large the current releases, these are structured, tannic wines that are going to benefit from short term cellaring.

A wonderfully complete wine, the 2015 Syrah Obsidian Vineyard is powerful and yet also translucent. Inky blue/purplish fruit, lavender, smoke, game and grilled herbs abound in a wine of texture, power and finesse. Syrahs from Obsidian can be a bit brutish, but Donelan's 2015 is decidedly sophisticated and polished. Sadly, the vineyard completely burned down in the October fire, and it will naturally be a few years before it is replanted and back in production.

Medium to deep garnet-purple in color, the 2015 Syrah Obsidian Vineyard opens with blackberry preserves and Black Forest cake notes on the nose with touches of cracked black pepper, truffles and tar plus a hint of aniseed. Medium to full-bodied, it delivers mouth-filling black fruit preserves and savory layers with firm, rounded tannins and just enough freshness, finishing long. 249 cases produced.