2008 Craggy Range Sophia Gimblett Gravels Vineyard

A blend of 89% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Sauvignon, 2% Malbec and 1% Cabernet Franc and matured in 52% new oak for 19 months, the 2008 Sophia is initially very closed on the nose with reluctant aromas of bilberry, black plum and a touch of cassis, later offering black olive and a hint of melted tar. The palate is underpinned by a firm tannic backbone, quite broody and uncompromising at first but delivering a scintillating, saline finish with crisp blackberry and boysenberry with great minerality. Drink 2012-2025. The wines from Craggy Range were tasted both in Hawkes Bay in January 2010 and then in London six months later. Steve Smith, Rod Easthope and the team continue to furnish consumers with a wide portfolio of terroir-based wines that satisfy both the value and prestige end of the market. Having tasted many of their wines, there is no doubt that they have ‘toned down’ their style, the initial releases being rather hubristic and a tad top-heavy with oak. This sense of refinement has lent the wines greater poise and breeding. Their reds are still their strongest suit, in particular their flagship labels such as ‘Le Sol’ and ‘Sophia’, but do not overlook their Chardonnays that exude great purity and Burgundian poise. Meanwhile their ‘Wild Rock’ entry-level range, which is treated as a completely separate entity to Craggy Range, contains some delightful varietals that form a neat introduction to the delights of Hawkes Bay’s wines. Importer: Kobrand Corp., New York, NY; tel. (212) 490-9300.