2002 Armand Rousseau Hospices Clos de la Roche

A garnet that is paler than the Dujac 2002. Very Morey with that zestiness. Initially it seemed to have a rather dry finish but in the glass it really opened out and became much smoother and more seductive. In the end I ended up preferring this to the initially bigger and more dramatic Dujac version. The fruit built in the glass so that eventually it was positively exotic. Lots of life ahead of this one. (JR)

The 2002 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru has a well defined bouquet that strangely shows a little reduction at first. It gradually finds its feet, revealing dark cherries, bay leaf and touches of pine cone. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin. This feels meaty and quite savoury at 16 years of age. There is good depth and grip, although it does not quite deliver the complexity of other Rousseau 2002s on the finish (like the Clos St-Jacques.) Tasted at Sarah Marsh MW’s 2002 Red Burgundy tasting.

Pale garnet. Light but subtle nose. Lifted and casual. Reverberates on the palate in a non-flashy but most impressive way. Great balance and confidence. Long and interesting. Excellent tension even if it is in no way heavy or sweetly concentrated. (JR)