2024 Kumeu River Chardonnay Coddington
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Tasting notes
The most welcoming of the Kumeu single-vineyard wines in youth, the 2024 Chardonnay Coddington offers richness and fullness. There's substance here, lending texture and gourmand chew as well as creaminess through the mid-palate. Nougat and pear combine, but the fruit remains restrained in this well-concentrated style. Acidity keeps on giving and helps provide tension alongside notable phenolics. As always, there's a lovely, subtle smoky spice from the Gilet oak barrels.
Critic scores
Jancis Robinson MW
Jasper Morris MW, Inside Burgundy
More reviews and scores
Full screwcapped bottle 1,348 g. From a 1.8-ha vineyard planted in 1994. Hand-harvested, whole-bunch pressed before 100% spontaneous barrel ferment in French oak with 100% malo (25% new French oak). 11 months' ageing in barrel. Lease extension has been negotiated but only annual so they don't invest in new plantings here. Always one of the last vineyards to pick because of leafroll virus, like Maté's. Heat trap gives stone-fruit character, says Michael B. Barrels from a single heavy-toasting cooper. Half of the usual crop and sold out fast in NZ. Mid straw-gold. Rich, peachy nose and softer than most of the Kumeu bottlings with light oak influence. Big and bold. A real undertow of ripeness. Even a little heat. (JR)
The 2024 Coddington Chardonnay is alive on the palate with preserved lemon rind, tendrils of crushed shells and layers of brine. It is electric, in its way. There are salted and crushed nuts on the middle palate and length, which uncoils through the finish that allows a second and third look at the detail inherent within. This is very exciting and also creamy. It was tasted as a tank sample prior to filtration and bottling.