1927 Vintage Port
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Tasting notes
I spent a few days last summer in Porto, and during a dinner with a handful of port producers, Johnny Symington brought this ancient bottle out. Everyone was in awe. Johnny jointly manages Symington Family Estates, whose brands comprise Graham\'s, Dow\'s, Warre\'s, Smith Woodhouse and, since only 2010, Cockburn\'s. It was light amber incolor with delicate toffee, dried cherries, some coffee and hints of mint. On the lightly sweet palate it showed a medium body and a dry, but incredibly long finish. It showed true pedigree and class especially on the finish. Aftertastes included nuts and burn orange peel. A legend.
Critic scores
Robert Parker
Jancis Robinson MW
More reviews and scores
This was a legendary vintage about which Ernest Cockburn wrote: just before 27 September it rained, so the vintage started in early October. The grapes were ripe and the weather hot and perfect. The lagares took a good deal of work.’ (This last was a euphemism meaning that the grapes were trodden for an extended period resulting in complex, dry wines – as opposed to the very sweet but slightly simple wines which ‘did not take much work’). The 1927s were already deemed ‘excellent’. Between 20,000 and 30,000 cases of this wine were made! Exceptionally deep brownish tawny. Smells quite different from the others. Passion fruit – underripe Tinta Barroca? Transparent and satisfying and very lip smacking. Such power and charm! Very clean on the finish. Perhaps some of the grapes were not fully ripe but this has led to an exceptional wine. Not classic but exceptional and showing no signs of age. Revitalising. Transparent and a lively balance between sweetness, acidity and a refreshing dry finish. (JR)