2014 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru***

70% of the crop saw oak. Solid and introvert but with real concentration. Still very earthbound aromatically but this certainly has the bones and muscles for a long life. (JR)

Very pale green-tinged yellow. Aromas of lemon gelato, soft citrus fruits and spices are lifted by a subtle floral topnote. Suave and thick but weightless. Less expressive by far than the Bougros but more penetrating thanks to solid mineral-driven acidity. Superb tension in the mouth. Very subtle and dry, with the saline, grapefruity finish going on and on. Didier Seguier will bottle the 2014 grand crus in December and January.

The 2014 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos is 70% vinified in oak barrels for six months before maturation in stainless steel only. It has a very precise but powerful bouquet with lemon rind and flint scents, though it takes time to really open up. The palate is fresh and crisp with lime and apricot on the entry. The acidity is sharp and penetrating, gently building toward an intense, bitter-lemon finish that is elegant and refined. This is very impressive.