2017 Le Vieux Donjon Châteauneuf-du-Pape

Limpid ruby-red. A highly perfumed, expansive bouquet evokes ripe red fruits, garrigue and exotic spices, and a smoky mineral note emerges as the wine opens up. Sweet and broad on the palate, offering juicy raspberry, cherry compote, spicecake and candied lavender flavors that tighten up slowly on the back half. Conveys both power and finesse and betrays no rough edges. Fine-grained tannins come in late on a very long, spicy finish that leaves suave floral and red fruit preserve notes behind.

While it doesn't match the 2016, the 2017 Châteauneuf Du Pape is a beautiful, elegant wine that also makes the most of this terrific vintage. Deep, rich, yet fabulously pure notes of blackcurrants, ground pepper, garrigue, and crushed flowers all emerge from the glass, followed by medium to full body, a stacked mid-palate, flawless balance, and a great, great finish. It's still backward and holding things a little close to its vest, yet it's a magical wine in the making. Give bottles 3-5 years of cellaring (although it's far from unapproachable today) and enjoy over the following two decades. It's as classic as it gets. The 2017 is a classic blend of 60% Grenache, 20% Syrah, 15% Mourvèdre, and the balance Cinsault, brought up all in foudre. Unfortunately, I wasn’t able to taste the white from this estate, but certainly, both reds showed brilliantly.

One of the few estates where the 2017 Chateauneuf du Pape actually eclipses the 2016, this is a top-flight effort. Black cherries and red raspberries combine with dried spices in a complex swirl of fruity and savory elements, garnished with sprigs of garrigue. Full-bodied, round and rich, this velvety wine should drink well through at least 2035.