2000 Château Smith Haut Lafitte***

Perfumed and savoury – a really attractive drink now (2022) but according to winemaker Fabien Teitgen it was extremely closed at first. (JR)

Magnum. Dark, blackish ruby with a still-lively rim. Dark, glowing, blackish ruby. Lift and some vaguely Asian spices (or do I mean ladies’ handbags?). Interesting aromas anyway and nicely blended into a mature bouquet. Not pushy in any way. In fact rather muted and low key, but a lovely balance of ripeness and freshness. Just slightly dry on the end – I wonder whether they were experimenting with oak at this time? A little bit dry on the end. Some energy and pulsating force. Some dry tannins on the end. Lusciousness. Charm but not great density. Hint of green apple on the finish. (JR)

Complex aromas – hints of undergrowth, pencil lead, red fruit beginning the process of sweet vinous decay. Fine but leathery tannins, more mineral on the palate. Fragrant and fresh with subtle persistence. (JH)