1998 Château Smith Haut Lafitte***

The 1998 Smith Haut Lafitte was the vintage that signified a property that was about to be rejuvenated under Florance and Daniel Cathiard, although there was still a long way to go. Now at 20 years old, perhaps it is beginning to show its age on the nose and it has far less fruit, the aromatics dominated by cigar box and tertiary, almost leathery scents. But there is freshness here and it is almost like a Médoc in style. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly rustic tannin on the entry, a little dry in the mouth with a touch of attenuation towards the finish. Having not tasted this before, I hazard a guess that it may have peaked around a decade ago, so why not pop open any bottles you might have? Tasted at the château.