2007 Meursault 1er Cru Les Charmes 0,75l Domaine Roulot

Magnum. Smoky, reductive nose. Rather less concentrated than the Corton-Charlemagne 2010 that preceded it, as one might expect, but very true to its origins and full of zest. Already delicious and probably nearing its peak. I have a big note next to this wine on the menu of the River Cafe to celebrate a friend's 60th birthday that says 'Brett'. After a few moments' puzzlement, I realised this referred to the donor rather than the condition of the wine. (JR)

The Roulot 2007 Meursault Charmes smells alluringly of buddleia, citrus zest, and ginger; pours forth refreshing lemon and lime, projecting a vigorous image; and offers crushed stone and salt in support of a sense of underlying density. This spare, bright representation of its cru is impressively long-lined and persistent and should be well worth following for at least 6-8 years, perhaps in the process demonstrating the extra measure of complexity that should mark the transition in this collection to premier cru. This was much more expressive in tank, indicates Roulot. Jean-Marc Roulot as usual racked his 2007s back into tank one year after their early September harvest, then let them rest on their fine lees there for 5-6 months before bottling, believing – as did so many growers – that the 2007s needed time to evolve before bottling. He considers himself to have had an advantage this year due to his predominance of northerly, high-elevation sites that benefited from breezes to ward off rot, and especially able to benefit from the north wind that brought general drying and concentration at the beginning of September. Finished alcohols hover around 12.5, “and lower degrees are no handicap as far as I am concerned,” opines Roulot. Still, he acknowledges that perhaps he might have done well to hold off a few more days with the harvest in certain parcels. Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524

Reticent but pure aromas of lemon and menthol. Suave and subtle, with lovely vivacity to the rather closed middle palate. Finishes long, with an emerging menthol note and a hint of gingery spice. The hardest to taste today of these young 2007s (this was much fatter in barrel). Roulot notes that he has very old vines here, but that they're not particularly well situated.