2012 Vieux Chateau Certan, Pomerol 1,5 l

87 % Merlot, 12% Cabernet Franc, 1% Cabernet Sauvignon. Vintage described as ‘typical’. Picked from 1 October to 11 October ‘just hours before heavy rains set in’. Alexandre was very keen to know whether the herbaceous nose was too much. We said no! Deep crimson. Leafy nose – quite distinctive. Juicy fruit that very suave but not one of the most concentrated. Very nicely balanced and with very ripe tannins and backbone. A great drink now. But no hurry. Juicy fruit. Neat and complete. Firm. Hint of bitter dark chocolate. (JR)

The 2012 Vieux Château Certan comes from a late harvest picked from October 1. The Cabernet is potent on the nose, not dissimilar to the 2008 with Montecristo cigars and undergrowth infusing the black fruit. Certainly, this is pretty Left Bank in style. The palate is well-balanced with a slightly herbaceous, peppery entry. Espresso notes infuse the black fruit with a structured finish. I just feel the oak a little here and find more composure on the 2011 by direct comparison. Tasted at the VCC vertical in Etikhove, Belgium.

The 2012 Vieux Château Certan is absolutely brilliant, but it shows a more Cabernet Franc-dominated style in its pure cassis, spring flower, graphite, green tobacco, and lead pencil-like aromas and flavors. These carry over to the palate, where the wine is medium to full-bodied, with a focused, pure, precise mouthfeel carrying ultra-fine tannins, remarkable purity, and a rare mix of freshness, elegance, and persistence. Where current vintages are more about incredible opulence without any sensation of weight, this is more about fineness, purity, and precision. It’s a sensational Pomerol that is just now in its early prime drinking window and has another two decades of longevity.