2011 Gevrey Chambertin Vielles Vignes 1,5 l Esmonin

Esmonin's 2011 Gevrey-Chambertin Cuvée Vieilles Vignes is rich, powerful and explosive. Today the Vieilles Vignes is surprisingly brooding and introspective in style. Black fruit, violets, dark spices and menthol inform the mysterious finish. The 2011 isn't quite fully formed yet, but it is impressive and full of personality, that much is clear.

The 2011 Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes has more volume on the nose compared to the village cru, and here the forest-floor scents are complemented by marine influences, seaweed and brine even. The palate is medium-bodied with crisp tannins on the entry. It is quite chalky in texture and then towards the finish there is a sweet iodine and black-olive-compote tincture that is unexpected. This is a complex Gevrey-Chambertin that deserves several years in bottle. Drink 2016-2030. Having tasted through her excellent 2012s, Sylvie invited me a run through her 2011s that had been bottled in April 2013. Importer: Louis/Dressner Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 334-8191 and through Berry Brothers & Rudd.

(60% vendange entier; this wine finished its malolactic fermentation last, in June): Deep red-ruby. Subdued but pure nose hints at black cherry, licorice and spices, plus a note of chocolate; higher-pitched than the regular village offering. Broad and peppery in the mouth but quite unevolved today and difficult to taste. With its rather tough tannins, the wine is dominated by its structure today. The finish shows a slightly dry, herbal quality that may well come from the stems.