2009 Gevrey Chambertin Vielles Vignes 1,5 l Esmonin

(vinified with 60% whole clusters): Bright, dark red. Captivating, urgent aromas of black cherry, crushed berries, flowers and peppery spices, plus an element of espresso torrefaction. Densely packed and creamy but less sweet and accessible today than the regular village wine. Hints of licorice and bitter chocolate contribute to this young wine's slightly medicinal quality. The reserved finish features firm tannins and very good saline grip. Will require patience.

The 2009 Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes (from 60+-year-old vines) bursts from the glass with masses of dark fruit. This rich, textured wine is totally beautiful and convincing. I especially admire the sheer depth and persistence of the fruit. The firm tannins need time to soften, but this is a jewel of a wine. The Vieilles Vignes is made from a number of plots, including Esmonin's tiny parcel of the 1er Cru Clos Prieur. The Vieilles Vignes was made with 60% whole bunches and was aged in 60% new oak. (AG)

(60% vendange entier; 60% new oak; as with the last two wines, this was racked into cuve two weeks before my visit) Dark but slightly hazy color, showing more unsettled lees. Aromas of blackberry, bitter chocolate, mint and licorice, plus a vanillin oak component. Deeper and chewier than the basic village offering but without that wine's easy sweetness. Here the wine's core of sappy black cherry, blackberry and bitter chocolate flavors are complicated by a saline element and show very good energy from the stem component. Large-scaled, tactile, very young wine that really stains the palate on the aftertaste.