2009 Volnay 1er Cru Champans 0,75 l Marquis d'Angerville

Pure, fresh and really rather beautiful – notably fresher than either the Caillerets or Taille Pieds. (JR)

The 2009 Volnay 1er Cru Champans was tasted against the 2011, the latter much more expressive and approachable. Speaking to Guillaume d'Angerville himself, seated next to me, I remarked that I thought the 2009 was closing down and he agreed. It has lost its initial exuberance - a bouquet that appears to have closed in on itself. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannins, stoic and a tad introverted, moody even, slightly grainy in texture with just a touch of piquancy on the finish. I am sure this will ultimately come good, but this is a surly Volnay for the patient. Those without it ought to head for the 2007 or 2011 vintages.

Champans is the largest single plot in the domaine and sometimes looked upon less favourably than the premiers crus where they have smaller holdings. According to Guillaume d'Angerville, 2009 was the last 'normal' vintage in terms of yield, with an average of 36 hl/ha. He also suggested that the 2009s are less expressive than they were a year ago. Mid to light garnet. Served relatively cool (just right for drinking) so not very open at first. Some notes of undergrowth and spice. Not as ripe as I had expected from this vintage, more savoury and dry. Almost rounded – just still a very slight edge to the tannins. Finely structured, the ripeness showing more in depth of fruit than in fruit flavour. Rich mid palate and cool finish.  (JH)