2010 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Beaux Monts 0,75 l Louis Jadot

(from a yield in the range of 20 hectoliters per hectare): Good medium red. Sexy, slightly high-toned aromas of black raspberry liqueur, coffee, dark chocolate, licorice and minerals. Sweet, silky and densely packed, conveying a strong impression of saline concentration. Peppery acidity gives definition and punch to the middle palate. Finishes firmly tannic, savory and very long, with enticing lingering perfume.

The 2010 Vosne-Romanee Les Beaux Monts covers every corner of the palate with layers of expressive dark fruit, flowers, spices and licorice. It boasts gorgeous mid-palate pliancy and richness in a soft, seductive style that is highly appealing. This is remarkably seamless and integrated for such a young wine in this vintage. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2030. I tasted an amazing range of 2010 reds at Jadot with long-term winemaker Jacques Lardiere and his successor Frederic Barnier. In order to make this large section of the report easier to read, I have broken up the wines into the Cote de Beaune and Cote de Nuits. Lardiere and Barnier told me they were quite worried about the prospects for the harvest upon their return from summer vacations in August, but the year was saved by a perfect September. Yields are down 25-50% because of the frost and cold weather earlier in the year, but overall quality is very high. Lardiere and Barnier also noted that early on it appeared that there would be a wide gap in quality between the Cote de Beaune and the Cote de Nuits, but over time that gap narrowed to some extent. Still, there is little question the vintage was more challenging in the Cote de Beaune because of a rainier summer and overall higher precipitation throughout the year. Importer: Kobrand Corp., Purchase, NY; tel. (914) 253-7756

Bitter sweet richness and lots of tannin but the core of fruit is not the most convincing. Slightly bitter finish. Dense but without lift. (JR)