1982 Château Trotanoy
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The 1982 Trotanoy is a vintage that I have not seen for a few years, but what a wine this is – the best since the 1975. Showing only modest bricking on the rim, the bouquet is entrancing with blackcurrant, black truffle, light fig and cassis notes, not rich but sumptuous in style, all with admirable delineation. The palate is very well balanced with a touch of glycerine on the entry. There is real depth and structure to this Pomerol, insistent grip with an irresistible fruit-driven, quite plummy finish that lingers long in the mouth. This is an outstanding Trotanoy. Tasted at Cornus restaurant in London with Mr Williams.
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The only one of the lineup that was a first time tasting for me, and it delivered the moreish, seductive signature that I was hoping for. A masterclass in how truffles and tobacco blossom in fully mature Pomerol, this is slap bang in its drinking window, with an emphasis on campfire smoke and grilled spice, the fruits softened and autumnal at this point, the whole thing favouring elegance and subtle complexities over concentration. The terroir of Trotanoy, with its distinct gravels and clays, is buit for ageing wines, and it lives up to expectations in this vintage. Owned by the Moueix family since 1953, with Jean-Claude Berrouet winemaker from 1963, joining at the age of 22.
Today, the 1982 Trotanoy is showing brilliantly, bursting from the glass with rich aromas of sweet berries, cigar wrapper, black truffle, petals and confit orange. Full-bodied, supple and sensual, its ample core of fruit framed by melting tannins, it's one of the most seamless, viscerally appealing wines of the vintage that remains comparatively underrated given its extraordinary quality.
Much less vibrant than 1990. Dry end. Smooth. Lighter than the 1990. Lightly spicy character. Much more open than the 1990 and with more pronounced acidity. Edouard Moueix teased Adam Brett Smith for having pulled the rug from under him by announcing that vineyard improvements had been undertaken in the mid 1980s. He mentioned 1982 yields as 80 hl/ha average! (JR)