1995 Roberto Voerzio Barolo Cerequio

I was surprised that Roberto Voerzio's 1995 Barolo Cerequio displayed such an evolved color. The amber, rusty edge suggested a wine that was far older than four years. The nose of tea, dried herbs, and cedar aromas makes this a spice rather than fruit-driven wine. It is medium-bodied, evolved, and fully mature. The finish is slightly compressed, but the wine possesses the textbook spice, melted road tar, and dried cherry-like flavors of an old style Barolo. Drink it over the next 5-6 years. Importer: Viva Vino, Eddystone, PA; tel. (610) 872-1500|| Wine Advocate.August, 1999

Medium red. Highly aromatic nose of amarena cherry, brown spices, and vanilla. Pliant, rich and smoky in the mouth, but not as vibrant as the '96. Notes of cherry and licorice. The rather substantial tannins are less buffered by middle palate fat than those of the '96. This wine will shut down in the bottle in a few months, says Voerzio, who notes that his Barolos normally need four or five years of cellaring following the bottling.