1991 Domaine Georges Roumier Bonnes Mares Grand Cru

The 1991 Bonnes Mares is dominated by its tannin. It has good color and vague scents of ripe cherry fruit, but its toughness and ferocious tannin kept my scores conservative. Although this is one of Burgundy's finest domaines, and a reference point for quality in most vintages, Roumier's 1991s are less successful than other top Cote de Nuits producers'. The yields were minuscule, ranging from 8-10 hectoliters per hectare, to 16-20 hectoliters per hectare for several of the grand crus. Though well-colored, the wines tend to be hard, tannic, and lacking the intensity of fruit necessary to match the tannin. Like some other 1991s, the balance between tannin and fruit is questionable. My experience has shown that the fruit usually fades more quickly than the tannin. In summary, the 1991 Roumiers all possess very good to excellent color and muted but ripe noses, but they are all dominated by their tannin. Those readers with faith that the tannin will melt away before the fruit fades will enjoy these wines more than I did. Importer: Chateau and Estates, New York, NY. NOTES ON THE 1992s FROM BARREL: I have a preference for this domaine's 1992s. The 1992s are tender, soft, ripe, fruity wines that are reminiscent of the 1989s and better 1982s. They do not have the richness and structure of a top vintage, but they are full of charm and their tannin is sweet and soft rather than astringent.