1992 Domaine des Comtés Lafon Meursault Les Perrières 1er Cru
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Tasting notes
Full yellow, the classic color of Lafon wines of its time. Very sexy nose combines pineapple, almond oil and musky brown spices. Wonderfully concentrated, juicy Perrières with complex, sweet flavors of fruits, spices, floral honey and nuts energized by sound, harmonious acidity. Finishes brisk and long. In excellent shape today, with no sign of oxidation. Lafon told me this wine was bottled with a fairly low 23 ppm free sulfur, adding that "it still showed some reduction ten years ago." It began by spending six months in 100% new oak and as the wine began with relatively low malic acidity, it did not change dramatically during the malolactic fermentation.
Critic scores
Robert Parker
Stephen Tanzer, Vinous
More reviews and scores
**Note: from two different parcels, a large one with 45+ year old vines that is only 50 yards from Genevrières and a second, smaller one with 20+ year old vines just above Charmes** Here again the nose is reduced so a good aeration is essential if this is opened young. Otherwise there is good vibrancy to the brilliantly well-delineated middle weight flavors that possess a wonderfully refined mouth feel along with excellent concentration, all wrapped in a silky and impeccably well-balanced finish where a trace of salinity appears. This notably dry but not really austere effort is terrific and it will also need all of a decade to display its full, and considerable, potential.
Niellon’s 1988 Bâtard-Montrachet revealed notable complexity in its smoke, earthiness and ripe, generous fruit while Lafon’s 1992 Meursault Perrières came across as more delicate and understated.
The tight 1992 Meursault-Les Perrieres is a more backward wine than the 1992 Meursault-Les Genevrieres, with a steely, mineral-scented nose, superb length, and ripe, long, powerful flavors that are supported by crisp acidity. It will be the slowest 1992 to evolve. The 1992s are still in cask, hence the estimated ratings. All of Lafon's 1992s are ripe, rich, precocious wines that will not have the aging potential of the superb 1989s, and excellent 1990s. Lafon, who sells only ten percent of his production to the United States, believes his 1992s are similar to the 1982s (probably the best wines of the vintage), but with more intensity and purity. Lafon rarely filters his wines. Importer: A Peter Vezan Selection, various importers, including Classic Wine Imports, Boston, MA.