1978 Château Cheval Blanc***

The 1978 Cheval Blanc replicated previous showings of this wine. The bouquet is now ferrous and spicy, the fruit having receded, still with that quite alluring Moroccan spice note that I observed back in 2015. The palate is medium-bodied and finely balanced, modest amounts of tobacco-infused black fruit with a slightly rustic, maybe hard finish that leans towards the Left Bank. It might lack the core of fruit many desire in this Saint-Émilion but those who enjoy classic Right Bank wines from this era will find much to like. Tasted out of magnum at a private dinner in Bordeaux.

This bottle was also showing beautifully (or was I just glad to get a drink after all that football?) It seemed so sweet and lush at first even if after a while the fruit started to fade a little. Wonderful jewel freshness. Reverberant on the palate. This really showed that in 1978 if the grapes were grown on a great terroir then there was enough stuffing, even if everyone had to wait so long for them to ripen. (JR)

The 1978 Chateau Cheval Blanc, which was served from magnum, has an endearing and you could almost describe it as "dainty," iron-scented nose with undergrowth and just a speck of Moroccan spice coming through. It is pleasant, even if I noticed how it lost some vigor over the course of 45 minutes. The palate is medium-bodied with tobacco-infused black fruit and a crisp line of acidity, though not a complex Saint Emilion. It is certainly what you might describe as "old school" Claret, because it is unashamedly austere and foursquare, yet you will still find yourself finishing the glass and pouring another. Not a Cheval for the hedonists for sure, but it deserves respect all the same. Tasted March 2015. Jul 2016, www.robertparker.com