1961 Château La Mission Haut-Brion

When 1961s are still delivering, you know you are in the presence of something extremely special. No question of that here, with floral aromatics that curl upwards out of the glass, caressing and soft but with depth and power. There are plenty of traces of tobacco leaf, old book and cigar box that you might expect at this age, but they are woven through autumnal fruits that retain their power even if softened, with an unexpected persistency. Stands among the best 1961s, right up alongside legends such as Latour 1961. Take a moment to think about the fact that these wines are now 63 years old and still giving pleasure. Insane really. Owned by the Woltner family at this point, as La Mission was from 1919 until 1983.

The 1961 La Mission Haut-Brion actually came from the same private collector and possibly the same case as the previous bottle encountered in Hong Kong. It has that sensational bouquet of vibrant black fruit infused with brine and Japanese nori ; the definition is off the charts. The palate is structured and less sensual than the 1959 La Mission, yet it is armed with ineffable precision and lip-smacking sapidity. Juxtaposing the two, this bottle does not quite have the brilliance of the 1955 La Mission, but it is damned close. Tasted at the La Mission Haut Brion dinner at Amuse Bouche in Hong Kong.