1962 Château Lafite Rothschild***

How annoying. The 1962 Lafite-Rothschild is a wine that I was looking forward to, yet it is clearly quite musty on the nose with a toffee-ish scent. The palate is actually fairly pleasurable with fine definition, and it improves in the glass gaining freshness. But I don't think this is representative enough to score. Tasted at La Trompette in London.

The 1962 Lafite-Rothschild is served from an impeccable magnum, one of the standouts of this comprehensive vertical tasting. Perhaps the larger format and provenance should be factored in, but neither of my two previous encounters with the 1962 has come close to this. Deeper in color than the 1966, the 1962 offers impressive blackberry and bilberry on the nose, vines of cedar and graphite evolving with time flanked by subtle black olive and brine. The palate is revivifying and fresh, demonstrating exquisite delineation. There is a compelling edginess to this Lafite, with a sustained pencil lead finish backed up by plenty of saline notes. What a truly great 1962 Bordeaux and perchance an under-appreciated Lafite-Rothschild. Tasted at the Lafite-Rothschild dinner at Amuse Bouche in Hong Kong.

Double magnum opened to celebrate some 50th birthdays. Ruby colour, a little cloudy. The nose showed trademark Lafite freshness together with some of the sweetness of this vintage. Depth, though not the intense, relative severity of 1961. This is super gentle. Probably past its best but not by much...certainly not in this format. (JR)