1983 Château Lafite Rothschild***

A cold and wet spring, during which the vine fell behind. But as from June came one of those miraculous summers that make the greatest vintages. Around the September equinox, storms brought fears of rot, because the grapes had suddenly swollen and we were worried that the skins would burst, especially for the Merlot. Bacchus, however, merciful to the winegrowers, sent them a magnificent period of weather, allowing for a dream harvest without a rainy day, which lasted from 30 September until after mid October. The first of a trio of wines – 1983, 1985 and 1986 – served blind. Struck by a leafiness on the nose that I associate with some of the less successful 1985s at this stage in their lives I foolishly plumped for 1985 when it was clearly the least impressive of the trio and I had no memory of Lafite 1983. The wine was certainly polished, light sweet and open – and now a bit skinny. There are probably enough pointers there too have steered me to 1983 but the most recent 1983 I tasted was Ch Margaux which was of course famously successful in this vintage. This Lafite 1983 was pretty but was losing fruit. It had Lafite class but needed drinking. (JR)

This is Lafite. Prune and spices, with a cedar and wet tobacco character on the nose. Even tea. Full and rich with a dark China tea and cedar character. Just a hint of chocolate. Opens in the glass like a genie. Amazing.

Blackish crimson. Very classic, aromatic, Lafite nose. Delicate and dancing. Drying out, but definitely herbal. Light weight. Fading. (JR)