2017 Wittmann Westhofener Morstein Riesling Grosses Gewachs

The aromatic combination of lemon peel, crushed stone and fusel oil suggests an analogy to Chablis. The palate is polished but firm, and features Wittmann- and Morstein-typical lemon zest bite allied to a palpable sense of chalky crushed stone suffusion. All of this adds up to a somewhat austere performance. Smoky and fusel notes segue into piquant lemon oil on a finish of formidable grip. “We worked incredibly long and hard deciding on this cuvée,” reported Wittmann, “and ended up bottling only a third of what we would in a normal year. It was important to me that no one anywhere in the world could say, ‘Well, the Morstein got hailed on, so it’s not quite so good this vintage.’”

The Morstein has always been a flagship Grosses Gewächs for the Wittmann estate and the 2017 is no different. Once again it is very generous in terms of fruit. Mango and pineapple giving it a tropical expression on the nose and peach and apricot put in a strong local presence on the palate. But before you can say fruit salad, a reverberating acidity adds sparkling vibrancy, and a fine peel note brings a subtle bitter-sweet hint to the finish. (MS)