2023 Bressay Estate Vineyard Chardonnay
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Like the Estate Pinot, this is grown in the Kearney Vineyard in Green Valley – planted in 2004 and usefully surrounded by forest – but Andy Smith labels this Sonoma Coast because he thinks it tastes coastal and the Pinot is labelled Russian River Valley because of how that one tastes! Aged 11 months in 26% new French oak ‘cigare’ barrels from Atelier Centre France, followed by 6 months settling in tank. Floral notes and also some of the mealy notes you encounter in white burgundies. Rich and broad, with some spice and real depth. (JR)
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James Suckling
Jeb Dunnuck
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Made entirely from Hyde and Mt. Eden clones, the 2023 Chardonnay DuMOL Estate Vineyard is creamy, layered and oily, qualities that are very much front and center. Lemon confit, marzipan, white flowers, truffle and tangerine oil all build in the glass, while floral overtones lend nuance. Time in the glass brings out the wine's textural density and volume.
The 2023 Chardonnay Estate Vineyard comes from high-density Mt. Eden vines. Grapes were harvested from September 23 to October 1, and the wine was matured for 11 months in 26% new French oak cigare barrels, followed by six months in tank. It has a kaleidoscopic perfume of crème brûlée, panna cotta and matchstick, melon, nectarine and orange peel. The full-bodied palate is incredibly powerful and concentrated, and its exotic, tropical flavors are delivered in a luxurious, satiny texture. It's balanced by vibrant acidity and has an epically long finish. 800 cases were made.
The higher elevation cousin to the Bressay, the 2023 Chardonnay DuMol Estate comes from a two-acre section of the vineyard planted to the Mt. Eden clone of Chardonnay. From this protected, tree-shaded site with high-density spacing (which ripens about a week later), the wine displays a bright yellow color and offers a wonderful, focused drive on the nose, with notes of fresh ginger, fresh apples, lime, and saline. It has a compact core with good density, although it ultimately showcases its more cool-vintage character with its vibrant energy and persistent length. Drink 2025-2037. Late last year, Andy Smith handed over the winemaking portion of his title to Jenna Davis. Jenna has been with the winery for over ten years, joining as a harvest intern in 2014 and working up to assistant winemaker. Andy retains his roles as partner and winegrower at DuMOL but was ready to pass the torch to the next generation in the winery’s legacy. The 2023s for this report were tasted in Sonoma with Andy and Jenna, as they have been for all three years of my coverage. Earning top marks for what this vintage has to offer, across the range the wines capture freshness and retain the focused concentration that gives them serious potential for longevity.